Lace had now become an article worthy the attention of the light-fingered
gentry. The jewels worn by our great-grandmothers of the eighteenth
century, though mounted in the most exquisite taste, were for the most part
false--Bristol or Alençon "diamonds," paste, or "Strass." Lace, on the
other hand, was a sure commodity and easily disposed of. At the robbery of
Lady Anderson's house in Red Lion Square during a fire, in 1700, the family
of George Heneage, Esq., on a visit, are recorded to have lost--"A head
with fine loopt lace, of very great value; a Flanders lace hood; a pair of
double ruffles and tuckers; two laced aprons, one point, the other Flanders
lace; and a large black lace scarf embroidered in gold."
Again, at an opera row some years later, the number of caps, ruffles, and
heads enumerated as stolen by the pickpockets is quite fabulous. So expert
had they become, that when first the ladies took to wearing powdered wigs,
they dexterously cut open the leather backs of the hack coaches and carried
off wig, head and all, before the rifled occupant had the slightest idea of
their attack.[1026] To remedy the evil, the police request all ladies for
the future to sit with their backs to the horses.[1027]
{347}QUEEN ANNE.
"PARLEY.--Oh, Sir, there's the prettiest fashion lately come over! so
airy, so French, and all that! The Pinners are double ruffled with twelve
plaits of a side, and open all from the face; the hair is frizzled up all
round head, and stands as stiff as a bodkin. Then the Favourites hang
loose upon the temple with a languishing lock in the middle. Then the
Caule is extremely wide, and over all is a Cornet rais'd very high and
all the Lappets behind."--Farquhar. _Sir Harry Wildair._
Queen Anne, though less extravagant than her sister, was scarcely more
patriotic. The point purchased for her coronation,[1028] though it cost but
£64 13s. 9d., was of Flanders growth. The bill is made out to the royal
laceman of King William's day, now Sir Henry Furnesse, knight and merchant.
The Queen, too, in her gratitude, conferred a pension of £100 upon one Mrs.
Abrahat, the royal clear-starcher; "because," writes the Duchess of
Marlborough, "she had washed the Queen's heads for twenty pounds a year
when she was princess."
In 1706 Anne again repeals the Acts which prohibit Flanders lace, with the
clear understanding that nothing be construed into allowing the importation
of lace made in "the dominions of the French King";[1029] an edict in
itself sufficient to bring the points of France into the highest
fashion.[1030]
"France," writes an essayist, "is the wardrobe of the world;" nay, "the
English have so great an esteem for the workmanship of the French refugees,
that hardly a thing vends without a Gallic name."[1031]
To the refugees from Alençon and elsewhere, expelled by the cruel edict of
Louis XIV., we owe the visible improvement of our laces in the eighteenth
century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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