The commerce of Flanders, notwithstanding the French taste, seemed now on a
comfortable footing. "The Flander-kins," writes the _British Merchant_ in
1713, "are gone off from wool, which we have got, to lace and linen.... We
have learned better, I hope, by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the
Flanders laces, which made the Flemings retaliate upon us, and lessened our
exportation of woollen manufactures by several £100,000 per annum."[1041]
Men looked upon lace as a necessary article to their wives' equipment.
Addison declares that when the China mania first came in, women exchanged
their Flanders point for punch-bowls and mandarins, thus picking their
husbands' pockets, who is often purchasing a huge china vase when he
fancies that he is buying a fine head for his wife.[1042] Indeed, they
could scarcely grumble, as a good wig cost from forty to fifty guineas--to
say nothing of their own lace ties and {350}ruffles. Only an old antiquary
like Sir Thomas Clayton could note down in his accounts:--"Lace and
fal-lalls,[1043] and a large looking-glass to see her old ugly face
in--frivolous expenses to please my proud lady."
{351}CHAPTER XXVI.
GEORGE I. AND II.
----
GEORGE I.
"Wisdom with periwigs, with cassocks grace,
Courage with swords, gentility with lace."--_Connoisseur._
The accession of the House of Hanover brought but little change either in
the fashions or the fabrics. In 1717 the King published an edict regarding
the hawking of lace, but the world was too much taken up with the Old
Pretender and the court of St. Germains; the King, too, was often absent,
preferring greatly his German dominions.
We now hear a great deal of lace ruffles; they were worn long and falling.
Lord Bolingbroke, who enraged Queen Anne by his untidy dress--"she
supposed, forsooth, he would some day come to court in his nightcap"--is
described as having his cravat of point lace, and his hands hidden by
exaggerated ruffles of the same material. In good old Jacobite times, these
weeping ruffles served as well to conceal notes--"poulets"--passed from one
wary politician to another, as they did the French sharpers to juggle and
cheat at cards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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