It appears somewhat strange that patriotism, as regards native
manufactures, should have received an impulse during the reign of that most
uninteresting though gallant little monarch, the second George of
Brunswick.[1055] But patriotism has its evils, for, writes an essayist,
"some ladies now squander away all their money in fine laces, because it
sets a great many poor people to work."[1056]
Ten years previous to the death of King George II. was founded, with a view
to correct the prevalent taste for foreign manufactures,[1057] the Society
of Anti-Gallicans, who held their quarterly meetings, and distributed
prizes for bone, point lace, and other articles of English
manufacture.[1058]
This society, which continued in great activity for many years, proved most
beneficial to the lace-making trade. It excited also a spirit of emulation
among gentlewomen of the middle class, who were glad in the course of the
year to add to a small income by making the finer kinds of needle-point,
which, on account of their elaborate workmanship, could be produced only in
foreign convents or by {356}persons whose maintenance did not entirely
depend upon the work of their hands.
Towards the year 1756 certain changes in the fashion of the day now again
mark the period, for--
"Dress still varying, most to form confined,
Shifts like the sands, the sport of every wind."
"Long lappets, the horse-shoe cap, the Brussels head, and the prudish mob
pinned under the chin, have all had their day," says the _Connoisseur_ in
1754. Now we have first mention of lace cardinals; trollopies or
slammerkins[1059] come in at the same period, with treble ruffles to the
cuffs; writers talk, too, of a "gentle dame in blonde lace," blonde being
as yet a newly-introduced manufacture.
Though history may only be all false,[1060] as Sir Robert Walpole said to
that "cynic in lace ruffles," his son Horace, yet the newspapers are to be
depended upon for the fashion of the day, or, as Lady Mary would say, "for
what new whim adorns the ruffle."[1061]
The lace apron,[1062] worn since the days of Queen Elizabeth, continued to
hold its own till the end of the eighteenth century, though some considered
it an appendage scarcely consistent with the dignity of polite society. The
anecdote of Beau Nash, who held these articles in the strongest aversion,
has been often related. "He absolutely excluded," says his biographer, "all
who ventured to appear at the Assembly Room at Bath so attired. I have
known him at a ball night strip the Duchess of Queensberry, and throw her
apron on one of the hinder benches among the ladies' women, observing that
none but Abigails appeared in white aprons; though that apron was of the
costliest point, and cost two hundred guineas."[1063]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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