Many of the early patterns appear to have been run or worked in with the needle on the net ground (Fig. 138). PLATE LXXXVI. [Illustration: ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. BOBBIN LACE.--End of nineteenth century. Widths: 1¾, 5¼ and 2 in. Photo by A. Dryden from a private collection.] _To face page 384._ {385}In 1778, according to M'Culloch,[1124] was introduced the "point" ground, as it is locally termed, from which period dates the staple pillow lace trade of these counties. This ground is beautifully clear, the patterns well executed: we doubt if Fig. 139 could be surpassed in beauty by lace of any foreign manufacture. Much of this point ground was made by men. [Illustration: Fig. 136. OLD FLEMISH.--(Newport-Pagnel.)] [Illustration: Fig. 137. OLD BRUSSELS.--(Northampton.)] The principal branch of the lace trade was the making of "baby lace," as those narrow laces were called, most specially employed for the adorning of infants' caps (Figs. 140, 141, 142). The "point" ground was used, the patterns taken from those of Lille and Mechlin--hence the laces of Buckingham and Bedfordshire have often been styled "English Lille." Though the fashion in the mother-country passed away, the American ladies held to the trimmed infant's cap until the breaking out of the Civil War; and up to that date large quantities of "baby lace" were exported to America, the finer sorts varying from five shillings to seven shillings and sixpence a yard, still retaining their ancient name of "points." {386}[Illustration: Fig. 138. "RUN" LACE.--(Newport-Pagnel.)] Many other descriptions of grounds were made--wire (Fig. 143), double, and trolly, in every kind of quality and width. In the making of the finer sorts of edging as many as 200 threads would be employed. [Illustration: Fig. 139. ENGLISH "POINT."--(Northampton.)] On the breaking out of the war with France, the closing of our ports to French goods gave an impetus to the trade, and the manufacturers undertook to supply the English {387}market with lace similar to that of Normandy and the sea-coast villages of France; hence a sort of "fausse" Valenciennes, called the "French ground." But true Valenciennes was also fabricated so fine (Fig. 144) as to rival the products of French Hainault. It was made in considerable quantities, until the expertness of the smuggler and the cessation of the war caused it to be laid aside. [Illustration: Fig. 140. "BABY" LACE.--(Northampton.)] [Illustration: Fig. 141. "BABY" LACE.--(Beds.)] [Illustration: Fig. 142. "BABY" LACE.--(Bucks.)] One-third of the lace-workers of Northampton were {388}employed, previous to the introduction of machine-made net, in making quillings on the pillow. During the Regency, a "point" lace, with the "cloth" or "toilé" on the edge, for many years was in fashion, and, in compliment to the Prince, was named by the loyal manufacturers "Regency Point." It was a durable and handsome lace (Fig. 145). [Illustration: Fig. 143.