A new branch of industry has lately opened to the Devonshire
lace-maker--that of restoring or re-making old lace. The splendid mantles,
tunics, and flounces which enrich the shop-windows of the great
lace-dealers of London are mostly concocted from old fragments by the
Devonshire lace-workers. It is curious to see the ingenuity they display in
re-arranging the "old rags"--and such they are--sent from London for
restoration. Carefully cutting out the {412}designs of the old work, they
sew them upon a paper pattern of the shape required. The "modes," or fancy
stitches, are dexterously restored, any deficient flower supplied, and the
whole joined together on the pillow.
[Illustration: Fig. 157.
OLD DEVONSHIRE POINT.]
TROLLY LACE.
Trolly lace comes next in order. It was quite different from anything else
made in Devonshire, and resembled many of the laces made in the midlands at
the present time. It was made of coarse British thread, and with heavier
and larger bobbins, and worked straight on round and round the pillow. The
origin of "Trolly" was undoubtedly Flemish, but it is said to have reached
Devonshire at the time of the French Revolution, through the Normandy
peasants, driven by want of employment from their own country, where lace
was a great industry during the eighteenth century. The origin of "trolly"
is from the Flemish "Trolle Kant," where the design was outlined with a
thick thread, or, possibly, it may be derived from a corruption of the
French _toilé_, applied to distinguish a flat linen pattern from the ground
or _treille_, a general term for a net ground. It is now almost extinct in
Devonshire, remaining in the hands of the midland counties,[1161] where it
more properly belongs.[1162]
[Illustration: Fig. 158.
LAPPET MADE BY THE LATE MRS. TREADWIN, OF EXETER, 1864.
_To face page 412._]
{413}Trolly lace was not the work of women alone. In the flourishing days
of its manufacture, every boy, until he had attained the age of fifteen,
and was competent to work in the fields, attended the lace schools
daily.[1163] A lace-maker of Sidmouth, in 1869, had learned her craft at
the village dame school,[1164] in company with many boys. The men,
especially the sailor returned from sea, would again resume the employment
of their boyhood, in their hours of leisure, and the labourer, seated at
his pillow on a summer's evening, would add to his weekly gains.
Mrs. Treadwin, in her younger days, saw some twenty-four men lace-makers in
her native village of Woodbury, two of whom, Palmer by name, were still
surviving in 1869, and one of these worked at his pillow so late as 1820.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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