With respect to the quality of this Hamilton lace, laudable as were the
efforts of the Duchess, she succeeded in producing but a very coarse
fabric. The specimens which have come under our notice are edgings of the
commonest description, of a coarse thread, always of the lozenge pattern
(Fig. 161); being strong and firm, it was used for nightcaps, never for
dresses, and justified the description of a lady who described it as of
little account, and spoke of it as "only Hamilton."
It appears that the Edinburgh Society died a natural death about 1764, but,
notwithstanding the untimely demise of this patriotic club, a strong
impetus had been given to the {431}lace-makers of Scotland.[1208]
Lace-making was introduced into the schools, and, what was better far, many
daughters of the smaller gentry and scions of noble Jacobite houses, ruined
by the catastrophe of 1745, either added to their incomes or supported
themselves wholly by the making of the finer points. This custom seems to
have been general, and, in alluding to it, Mrs. Calderwood speaks of the
"helplessness" of the English women in comparison to the Scotch.
In the journals of the day we have constant advertisements, informing the
public of the advantages to be gained by the useful arts imparted to their
offspring in their establishments, inserted by ladies of gentle blood--for
the Scotchwomen of the last century no more disdained to employ themselves
in the training of youth than does now a French dame de qualité to place
herself at the head of the Sacré-Coeur, or some other convent devoted to
educational purposes.[1209]
[Illustration: Fig. 161.
HAMILTON.]
The entry of all foreign laces was excluded by law. The {432}Scotch nation
of the Hanoverian persuasion were wrath at the frivolity of the Jacobite
party. "£400,000 have been sent out of the country during the last year,"
writes the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ of 1764, "to support our exiled
countrymen in France, where they learn nothing but folly and extravagance."
English laces were not included in the prohibition. In 1763, that "neat
shop near the Stinking Style, in the Lukenbooths," held by Mr. James
Baillie, advertises "Trollies, English laces, and pearl edgings." Four
years later, black silk lace and guipure are added to the stock, "mennuet,"
and very cheap bone lace.[1210]
Great efforts, and with success, were made for the improvement of the
thread manufacture, for the purchase of which article at Lille £200,000
were annually sent from Scotland to France. Badly-spun yarn was seized and
burned by the stamp master; of this we have frequent mention.[1211]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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