The cessation of all commercial intercourse prevented France from keeping
pace with the improvements making in England; yet, singularly enough, at
the beginning of the nineteenth century more net was manufactured in France
than in England. At the time of the Peace of Amiens (1802) there were 2,000
frames in Lyons and Nîmes, while there were scarcely 1,200 in England; but
the superiority of the English net was incontestable, so, to protect the
national manufacture, Napoleon prohibited the importation. This of course
increased its demand; the net was in request in proportion as it was
prohibited. The best mart for Nottingham was the French market, so the
Nottingham net trade took every means to pass their produce into France.
{452}Hayne, one of the proprietors of the "barley-corn" net, had gone to
Paris to make arrangements for smuggling it over, when the war broke out,
and he was detained. Napoleon proposed that he should set up a machine in
France; but he preferred continuing his illicit trade, which he carried on
with great success until 1809, when his own agent informed against him, his
goods were seized and burned, and having in one seizure lost £60,000
(1,500,000 fr.), he was completely ruined, and fled to England.[1253]
The French manufacturers took out various patents for the improvement of
their "Mechlin" machines, and one was taken, in 1809, for making a crossed
net called "fond de glace"; but the same year Heathcoat producing the
bobbin net machine, the inventors could not sustain the competition.
Every attempt was made to get over bobbin net machines; but the export of
English machinery was punished by transportation, and the Nottingham
manufacturers established at their own expense a line of surveillance to
prevent the bobbin net machines from going out. In spite of all these
precautions, Cutts, an old workman of Heathcoat's, contrived to elude their
vigilance, and, in 1815, to import a machine to Valenciennes, whence he
removed it to Douai, where he entered into partnership with M. Thomassin.
In 1816 they produced the first bobbin net dress made in France. It was
embroidered by hand by a workwoman of Douai, and presented by the makers to
the Duchesse d'Angoulême. About the end of the year 1816 James Clark
introduced a machine into Calais, which he passed in pieces by means of
some French sailors. These two were the first bobbin net machines set up in
France.
It is not within our limits to follow the Calais lace manufacturers through
their progress; suffice it to say that it was in 1817 that the first bobbin
net machine worked, concealed from all eyes, at Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais,
now, if not the rival of Nottingham, at least the great {453}centre of the
bobbin net and machinery lace manufactures in France.[1254]
St. Quentin, Douai, Cambrai, Rouen, Caen, have all in turn been the seats
of the tulle manufacture. Some of these fabrics are extinct; the others
have a very limited trade compared with Saint-Pierre and Lyons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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