The lace-manufacture of the Netherlands, as Baron Reiffenberg writes, has a
glorious past. After exciting the jealousy of other European nations, in
the sixteenth century, when every industrial art fled from the horrors of
religious persecution, the lace fabric alone upheld itself, and by its
prosperity saved Flanders from utter ruin. Every country of Northern
Europe,[323] Germany, and England, has learned the art of lace-making from
Flanders. After the establishment of the Points de France by Colbert,
Flanders was alarmed at the number of lace-makers who emigrated, and passed
an act, dated Brussels, December 26th, 1698, {112}threatening with
punishment any who should suborn her workpeople.
Lace-making forms an abundant source of national wealth to Belgium, and
enables the people of its superannuated cities to support themselves, as it
were, on female industry.[324] One-fourth of the whole population (150,000
women) were said to be thus engaged, in 1861. But a small number assemble
in the ateliers; the majority work at home. The trade now flourishes as in
the most palmy days of the Netherlands.
[Illustration: Fig. 51.
CAP OF THE EMPEROR CHARLES V.--(Musée de Cluny.)
This engraving is not accurately drawn. The spaces contain birds and
crosses, and not sprigs.]
[Illustration: Fig. 52.
ISABELLA CLARA EUGENIA, DAUGHTER OF PHILIP II., ARCHDUCHESS OF AUSTRIA,
GOVERNESS OF THE NETHERLANDS.--Died 1633.
_To face page 112._]
{113}Lace forms a part of female education in Belgium. Charles V. commanded
it to be taught in the schools and convents. Examples of the manufactures
of his period may be seen in the cap said to be worn by him under his
crown, and in the contemporary portrait of his sister Mary, Queen of
Hungary. This cap, long preserved in the treasury of the bishop-princes of
Basle, has now passed into the Musée de Cluny (Fig. 51). It is of fine
linen; the imperial arms are embroidered in relief, alternate with designs
in lacis of exquisite workmanship.[325]
[Illustration: Fig. 53.
MARY, QUEEN OF HUNGARY, GOVERNESS OF THE LOW COUNTRIES. +1558.--(From her
portrait, Musée de Versailles.)]
Queen Mary's cuffs (Fig. 53) are of the geometric pattern of the age, and
we may presume, of Flanders make, as she was Governess of the Low Countries
from 1530 till her death. The grand-daughter of Charles V., the Infanta
Isabella, who brought the Low Countries as her dower,[326] appears in her
portraits (Fig. 52) most resplendent in lace, and her ruff rivals in size
those of our Queen Elizabeth, or Reine Margot.
But to return to our subject. Of the lace schools there were nearly 900 in
1875, either in the convents or founded by private charity. At the age of
five small girls commence {114}their apprenticeship; by ten they earn their
maintenance; and it is a pretty sight, an "école dentellière," the children
seated before their pillows, twisting their bobbins with wonderful
dexterity. (Fig. 54.)
[Illustration: Fig. 54.
A BELGIAN LACE SCHOOL.]
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