[Illustration: FLEMISH. GUIPURE DE FLANDRE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Seventeenth
century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.]
_To face page 134._
{135}The first Binche lace has the character of Flanders lace, so it has
been supposed that the women who travelled from Ghent in the train of Mary
of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles le Téméraire, created the taste for
lace at Binche, and that the stay of the great ladies, on their visits to
the royal lady of the manor, made the fortune of the lace-makers.
Afterwards there was much traffic between the lace-workers of Brussels and
Binche, and there is a great resemblance between the laces of the two
towns. Sometimes the latter is less light, richer, and more complex in
effect, and the design is closely sprinkled with open-work, the ground
varied and contrasted.
Binche was, as early as 1686, the subject of a royal edict, leading one to
infer that the laces it produced were of some importance. In the said
edict, the roads of Verviers, Gueuse, and Le Catelet, to those persons
coming from Binche, are pronounced "faux passages."[381] Savary esteems the
products of this little village. The same laces, he adds, are made in all
the _monastères_ of the province, that are partly maintained by the gains.
The lace is good, equal to that of Brabant and Flanders. The characteristic
peculiarities of Binche are, that there is either no cordonnet at all
outlining the pattern, or that the cordonnet is scarcely a thicker thread
than that which makes the _toilé_.[382] The design itself is very
indefinite, and is practically the same as the early Valenciennes laces.
Varieties of the _fond de neige_ ground were used instead of the regular
_réseau_ ground. Dentelle de Binche appears to have been much in vogue in
the last century. It is mentioned in the inventory of the Duchesse de
Modène,[383] daughter of the Regent, 1761; and in that of Mademoiselle de
Charollais, 1758, who has a "couvrepied, mantelet, garniture de robe,
jupon," etc., all of the same lace. In the _Misérables_ of Victor Hugo, the
old grandfather routs out {136}from a cupboard "une ancienne garniture de
guipure de Binche" for Cosette's wedding-dress.[384] The Binche application
flowers have already been noticed.
The lace industry of Binche will soon be only a memory. But before 1830 it
"was a hive of lace-makers, and the bees of this hive earned so much money
by making lace that their husbands could go and take a walk without a care
for the morrow," as it is curiously phrased in an account of Binche and its
lace. (Plate XLIII.)
We have now named the great localities for lace-making throughout the Low
Countries. Some few yet remain unmentioned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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