{145}The ruff is finally discarded and replaced by the "col rabattu," with its deep-scalloped border of point. The "manchettes à revers" are trimmed in the same manner, and the fashion even extends to the tops of the boots. Of these lace-trimmed boots the favourite, Cinq-Mars, left three hundred pairs at his death, 1642. From his portrait, after Lenain, which hangs in the Gallery of Versailles, we give one of these boots (Fig. 66), and his rich collerette of Point de Gênes (Fig. 67). [Illustration: Fig. 66. CINQ-MARS.--(M. de Versailles.)] The garters, now worn like a scarf round the knee, have the ends adorned with point. A large rosette of lace completes the costume of the epoch (Fig. 68). {146}Gold lace shared the favour of the thread fabric on gloves,[425] garters and shoes.[426] "De large taftas la jartière parée Aux bouts de demy-pied de dentelle dorée."[427] The cuffs, collars of the ladies either falling back or rising behind their shoulders in double tier, caps, aprons descending to their feet (Fig. 69), are also richly decorated with lace. [Illustration: Fig. 67. CINQ-MARS.--(After his portrait by Le Nain. M. de Versailles.)] The contemporary engravings of Abraham Bosse and Callot faithfully portray the fashions of this reign. In the Prodigal Son, of Abraham Bosse, the mother, waiting his {147}return, holds out to her repentant boy a collar trimmed with the richest point. The Foolish Virgins weep in lace-trimmed handkerchiefs, and the table-cloth of the rich man, as well as his dinner-napkins, are similarly adorned. Again, the Accouchée recovers in a cap of Italian point under a coverlet of the same. At the Retour de Baptême, point adorns the christening-dress of the child and the surplice of the priest. When, in 1615, Louis XIII. married Anne of Austria, the collerettes of the Queen-Mother were discarded--the reign of Italy was at an end--all was now à l'éspagnole and the court of Castile. [Illustration: Fig. 68. LACE ROSE AND GARTER.--(After Abraham Bosse.)] The prodigality of the nobles[428] having called down royal ordinances on their heads,[429] these new edicts bring forth {148}fresh satires, in which the author deplores the prohibition of cut-work and lace:-- "Ces points couppez, passemens et dentelles, Las! que venaient de l'Isle et de Bruxelles, Sont maintenant descriez, avilis, Et sans faveur gisent ensevelis;"[430] but "Pour vivre heureux et à la mode Il faut que chacun accommode Ses habits aux editz du roi." [Illustration: Fig. 69. YOUNG LADY'S APRON, TIME OF HENRY III.--(After Gaignières. Bib. Nat. Grav.)]