This ordinance, after prohibiting all foreign "passemens, points de Gênes,
points coupés," etc., or any French laces or passements exceeding an inch
in width, allows the use of the "collerettes and manchettes" persons
already possess for the space of one year, after which period they are only
to be trimmed with a lace made in the kingdom, not exceeding an {153}inch
in width. The ordinance then goes on to attack the "canons," which it
states have been introduced into the kingdom, with "un excès de dépense
insupportable, par la quantité de passemens, points de Venise et Gênes,"
with which they are loaded.[441] Their use of them is now entirely
prohibited, unless made of plain linen or of the same stuff as the coat,
without lace or any ornament. The lace-trimmed "canons" of Louis XIV., as
represented in the picture of his interview with Philip IV., in the Island
of Pheasants, previous to his marriage, 1660 (Fig. 72), give a good idea of
these extravagant appendages. These
"Canons à trois étages
A leurs jambes faisoient d'ombrages."[442]
And, what was worse, they would cost 7,000 livres a pair. "At the Court of
France," writes Savinière, "people think nothing of buying rabats,
manchettes, or canons to the value of 13,000 crowns."[443] These canons,
with their accompanying rheingraves, which after the prohibition of Venice
point were adorned with the new productions of France, suddenly
disappeared. In 1682, the _Mercure_ announces, "Les canons et les
rheingraves deviennent tout à fait hors de mode."
At the marriage of the young King with the Infanta, 1660, black lace,[444]
probably in compliment to the Spanish[445] {154}court, came into favour,
the nobles of the King's suite wearing doublets of gold and silver brocade,
"ornés," says the _Chronique_,[446] "de dentelles noires d'un point
recherché."[447] The same writer, describing the noviciate of La Vallière
at the Carmelites, writes, "Les dames portoient des robes de brocard d'or,
d'argent, ou d'azur, par dessus lesquelles elles avoient jetées d'autres
robes et dentelles noires transparentes."[448] Under Louis XIV., the gold
and silver points of Spain and Aurillac rivalled the thread fabrics of
Flanders and Italy; but towards the close of the century,[449] we are
informed, they have fallen from fashion into the "domaine du vulgaire."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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