Nor was the Veuve Scarron behind the rest. When, in 1674, she purchased the
estate from which she afterwards derived her title of Maintenon, anxious to
render it productive, she enticed Flemish workers from the frontier to
establish a lace manufacture upon her newly-acquired marquisate. How the
fabric succeeded history does not relate, but the costly laces depicted in
her portraits (Fig. 76) have not the appearance of home manufacture.
[Illustration: Fig. 75.
LOUVOIS. 1691.--(From his statue by Girardon. M. de Versailles.)]
Point lace-making became a favourite employment among ladies. We have many
engravings of this reign; one, 1691, of a "fille de qualité" thus occupied,
with the motto, "Apres {164}dîner vous travaillez au point." Another,[484]
an engraving of Le Paultre, dated 1676, is entitled "Dame en Déshabille de
Chambre" (Fig. 77).
"La France est la tête du monde" (as regards fashion), says Victor Hugo,
"cyclope dont Paris est l'oeil"; and writers of all ages seem to have been
of the same opinion. It was about the year 1680 that the
"Mode féconde en mille inventions,
Monstre, prodige étrange et difforme,"
was suddenly exemplified in France.
[Illustration: Fig. 76.
MADAME DE MAINTENON.--(From her portrait. M. de Versailles.)]
All readers of this great reign will recall to mind the story of the
"Fontanges." How in the hurry of the chase the locks of the royal favourite
burst from the ribbon that bound them--how the fair huntress, hurriedly
tying the lace kerchief round her head, produced in one moment a coiffure
so light, so artistic, that Louis XIV., enchanted, prayed her to retain it
for that night at court. The lady obeyed the royal command. This mixture of
lace and ribbon, now worn for the first time, caused a sensation, and the
next day all {165}the ladies of the court appeared "coiffées à la
Fontange." (See Madame du Lude, Fig. 79.)
[Illustration: Fig. 77.
A LADY IN MORNING DÉSHABILLE.--(From an engraving by Le Paultre. 1676.)]
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