The colouring matter contained in the _sac_ of the _Purpuræ_ is a liquid
of a creamy consistency, and of a yellowish-white hue. On extraction, it
is at first decidedly yellow; then after a little time it becomes green;
and, finally, it settles into some shade of violet or purple. Chemical
analysis has shown that in the case of the _Murex trunculus_ the liquid
is composed of two elementary substances, one being cyanic acid, which
is of a blue or azure colour, and the other being purpuric oxide, which
is a bright red.[819] In the case of the _Murex brandaris_ one element
only has been found: it is an oxide, which has received the name of
_oxyde tyrien_.[820] No naturalist has as yet discovered what purpose
the liquid serves in the economy, or in the preservation, of the animal;
it is certainly not exuded, as sepia is by the cuttle-fish, to cloud the
water in the neighbourhood, and enable the creature to conceal itself.
Concerning the Phoenician process of dyeing, the accounts which have
come down to us are at once confused and incomplete. Nothing is said
with respect to their employment of mordants, either acid or alkali, and
yet it is almost certain that they must have used one or the other, or
both, to fix the colours, and render them permanent. The _gamins_
of Tyre employ to this day mordants of each sort;[821] and an alkali
derived from seaweed is mentioned by Pliny as made use of for fixing
some dyes,[822] though he does not distinctly tell us that it was known
to the Phoenicians or employed in fixing the purple. What we chiefly
learn from this writer as to the dyeing process is[823]--first, that
sometimes the liquid derived from the _murex_ only, sometimes that of
the _purpura_ or _buccinum_ only, was applied to the material which it
was wished to colour, while the most approved hue was produced by an
application of both dyes separately. Secondly, we are told that the
material, whatever it might be, was steeped in the dye for a certain
number of hours, then withdrawn for a while, and afterwards returned to
the vat and steeped a second time. The best Tyrian cloths were called
_Dibapha_, i.e. “twice dipped;” and for the production of the true
“Tyrian purple” it was necessary that the dye obtained from the
_Buccinum_ should be used after that from the _Murex_ had been applied.
The _Murex_ alone gave a dye that was firm, and reckoned moderately
good; but the _Buccinum_ alone was weak, and easily washed out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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