Even at the present day, the right apprehension of the
nature of an Undulation transmitted through a fluid is found
to be very difficult for all persons except those whose
minds have been duly disciplined by mathematical studies.
When we see a wave run along the surface of water, we are
apt to imagine at first that a portion of the fluid is
transferred bodily from one place to another. But with a
little consideration we may easily satisfy ourselves that
this is not so: for if we look at a field of standing corn,
when a breeze blows over it, we see waves like those of
water run along its surface. Yet it is clear that in this
case the separate stalks of corn only bend backwards and
forwards, and no portion of the grain is really conveyed
from one part of the field to the other. This is obvious
even to popular apprehension. The poet speaks of
. . . . The rye,
That stoops its head when whirlwinds rave
And springs again in eddying wave
As each wild gust sweeps by.
Each particle of the mass in succession has a small motion
backwards and forwards; and by this means a large ridge made
by many such particles runs along the mass to any distance.
This is the true conception of an undulation in general.
Thus, when an Undulation is propagated in a fluid, it is not
_matter_, but _form_, which is transmitted from {325} one
place to another. The particles along the line of each wave
assume a certain arrangement, and this arrangement passes
from one part to another, the particles changing their
places only within narrow limits, so as to lend themselves
successively to the arrangements by which the successive
waves, and the intervals between the waves, are formed.
When such an Undulation is propagated through air, the wave
is composed, not, as in water, of particles which are higher
than the rest, but of particles which are closer to each
other than the rest. The wave is not a ridge of elevation,
but a line of condensation; and as in water we have
alternately elevated and depressed lines, we have in air
lines alternately condensed and rarefied. And the motion of
the particles is not, as in water, up and down, in a
direction transverse to that of the wave which runs
forwards; in the motion of an undulation through air the
motion of each particle is alternately forwards and
backwards, while the motion of the undulation is constantly
forwards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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