History of the FanRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
History of the Fan
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Fans
By 1700 the decorative arts were well on the downward path. Bernini
had been dead twenty years, but his influence, together with that of
Borromini, was still a living thing, and was still working irreparable
mischief. Sir M. Digby Wyatt, in a powerful article written for Owen
Jones’s _Grammar of Ornament_, referring to Borromini, says: ‘From his
fervid imagination and rare facility as a draughtsman and designer, he
soon obtained ample employment; and in his capricious vagaries, every
tendency to extravagance that Bernini’s style possessed Borromini
contrived to caricature. Until his death, in 1667, he continued
sedulously occupied in subverting all known principles of order and
symmetry, not only to his own enrichment, but to the admiration of
the leaders of the fashion of the day. The anomalies he introduced
into design, the disproportionate mouldings, broken, contrasted, and
re-entering curves, ... became the _mode_ of the day, and all Europe
was speedily busy in devising similar enormities. In France the fever
raged speedily, and the popular style, in place of the quaint but
picturesque forms to be seen in the engravings of Du Cerceau, 1576,
substituted the more elaborate but less agreeable ones to be found in
Marot, 1727, and Mariette, 1726-7.... Despite this debasing influence,’
continues our author, ‘many of the French artists of the time, both
of Louis XIV. and XV., in the midst of their extravagances, made many
beautiful ornamental designs, showing in them a sense of capricious
beauty of line rarely surpassed.’
[Illustration: La Danse, Louis XV, skin leaf, mother of pearl stick,
carved, painted, & gilt. 22” X 11-3/4”.
The Duchess of Portland.]
[Illustration: Pastorelle, Louis XV, skin leaf, tortoiseshell stick,
with gold incrustations 18-1/4” × 10”.
The Duchess of Portland.]
This, although written at the period of perhaps the very lowest ebb
of the decorative arts, the mid-Victorian era, pretty well sums up
the matter, and is a fair estimate of the decorative tendencies that
obtained at the beginning of the eighteenth century. The general
character of the fan, therefore, necessarily partook of this debasing
influence, and reflected the ornamental vulgarities and fashionable
inanities of the time. Thus we have, in moulded ornament, a profusion
of those extravagant shell-like cartouches which have become
identified with the periods of Louis XV. and XVI.; curly structures
elaborately perforated, beginning and ending at will, observing no
reasonable or well-defined law, but expressing only the caprice of
the artist. These either formed the starting-point for the lighter
ornaments, or were associated with naturalistic swags and festoons of
fruit and flowers, masks, ribbons, etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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