Scheveningen is a village two miles from the Hague, and connected with
it by a straight road bordered along its whole length by several rows
of beautiful elms, which form a perfect shade. On either side of the
road, beyond the elms, there are small villas, pavilions, and cottages
with roofs that look like the kiosks of the gardens, and with facades
of a thousand fantastic shapes, all bearing the usual inscriptions
inviting to repose and pleasure. This road is the favorite promenade
of the citizens of the Hague on Sunday evenings, but on the other days
of the week it is almost always deserted. One meets only a few women
from Scheveningen, and now and then a carriage or the coaches that
come and go between the town and the village. As one walks along it
seems as though the road must lead to some royal palace surrounded by
a large garden or a wide park. The luxuriant vegetation, the shadow
and silence, call to mind the forests of Andalusia and Granada. One no
longer remembers Scheveningen and forgets that he is in Holland.
[Illustration: On the Road to Scheveningen.]
When the end of the road is reached the change of scene is so
sudden that it seems unreal. The vegetation, the shade, the likeness
to Granada,--all have disappeared, and one stands in the midst of
dunes, sand, and desert; one feels the salt wind blow and hears its
dull confused sound. From the summit of one of the dunes one may see
the North Sea.
One who has seen only the Mediterranean is impressed by a new and
profound feeling at sight of that sea and shore. The beach is formed
of very fine, light-colored sand, over which the outermost edges of
the waves flow up and down like a carpet which is being continually
folded and unfolded. This sandy sea-shore extends to the foot of the
first dunes, which are steep, broken, corroded mounds deformed by the
eternal beating of the waves. Such is the Dutch coast from the mouth
of the Meuse to the Helder. There are no mollusks, no star-fish, no
shells or crabs; there is not a single bush or blade of grass. Nothing
is seen but sand, waste, and solitude.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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