The population of Scheveningen, which numbers only a few thousands, is
almost entirely composed of fishermen, the greater number of whom are
very poor. The village is still one of the principal stations of the
herring fishery, where are cured those celebrated fish to which
Holland owes her riches and power. But the profits of this industry go
to the captains of the fishing vessels, and the men of Scheveningen,
who are employed as sailors, hardly earn a livelihood. On the beach,
in front of the village, many of those wide staunch boats with a
single mast and a large square sail may always be seen ranged in line
on the sand one beside the other, like the Greek galleys on the coast
of Troy: thus they are safe from the gusts of wind. The flotilla,
accompanied by a steam sloop, starts early in June, directing its
course toward the Scottish coast. The first herrings taken are at once
sent to Holland, and conveyed in a cart ornamented with flags to the
king, who in exchange for this present gives five hundred florins.
These boats make catches of other fish as well, which are in part sold
at auction on the sea-shore, and in part are given to the Scheveningen
fishermen, who send their wives to sell them at the Hague market.
Scheveningen, like all the other villages of the coast, Katwijk,
Vlaardingen, Maassluis, is a village that has lost its former
prosperity in consequence of the decline of the herring fishery,
owing, as every one knows, to the competition of England and the
disastrous wars. But poverty, instead of weakening the character of
this small population, beyond doubt the most original and poetical in
Holland, has strengthened it. The inhabitants of Scheveningen in
appearance, character, and habits seem like a foreign tribe in
comparison with the people of their own country. They dwell but two
miles from a large city, and yet preserve the manners of a primitive
people that has always lived in isolation. As they were centuries ago,
so are they now. No one leaves their village, and no one who is not a
native ever enters it: they intermarry, they speak a language of their
own, they all dress in the same style and in the same colors, as did
their fathers' fathers. At the time of the fishing only the women and
children remain in the village; the men all go to sea. They carry
their Bibles with them on their departure. On board they neither drink
nor swear nor laugh. When the stormy seas toss their little boats on
the crests of the waves, they close all the apertures and await death
with resignation. At the same moment their wives are singing psalms,
shut in their cottages rocked by the wind and beaten by the rain.
Those little dwellings, which have witnessed so many mortal griefs,
which have heard the sobs of so many widows, which have seen the
sacred joys of happy return and the disconsolate departure of many
husbands, with their cleanliness, their white curtains, with the
clothes and shirts of the sailors hanging at the windows,--tell of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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