United States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
In the loom-room of Weaver Rose a veritable atmosphere of the past still
lingers. Everything appertaining to the manufacture of homespun
materials may there be found. Wheels, skarnes, sleys, warping-bars,
clock-reels, swifts, quilling-wheels, vast bales of yarns and
thread--for he no longer spins his thread and yarn. There are piles of
old and new bed coverlets woven in those fanciful geometric designs,
which are just as the ancient Gauls wove them in the Bronze Age, and
which formed a favorite bed-covering of our ancestors, and of country
folk to-day. These coverlets the weaver calls by the good old English
name of hap-harlot, a name now obsolete in England, which I have never
seen used in text of later date than Holinshead's _Survey of London_,
written four hundred years ago. His manuscript pattern-book is over a
hundred years old, and has the rules for setting the harnesses. They
bear many pretty and odd names, such as "Rosy Walk," "Baltimore
Beauty," "Girl's Love," "Queen's Fancy," "Devil's Fancy," "Everybody's
Beauty," "Four Snow Balls," "Five Snow Balls," "Bricks and Blocks,"
"Gardener's Note," "Green Vails," "Rose in Bloom," "Pansies and Roses in
the Wilderness," "Flag-Work," "Royal Beauty," "Indian March," "Troy's
Beauty," "Primrose and Diamonds," "Crown and Diamonds," "Jay's Fancy,"
"In Summer and Winter," "Boston Beauty," and "Indian War." One named
"Bony Part's March" was very pretty, as was "Orange Peel," and "Orange
Trees"; "Dog Tracks" was even checkerwork, "Blazing Star," a
herring-bone design. "Perry's Victory" and "Lady Washington's Delight"
show probably the date of their invention, and were handsome designs,
while the "Whig Rose from Georgia," which had been given to the weaver
by an old lady a hundred years old, had proved a poor and ugly thing.
"Kapa's Diaper" was a complicated design which took "five harnesses" to
make. "Rattlesnake's Trail," "Wheels of Fancy," "Chariot Wheels and
Church Windows," and "Bachelor's Fancy" were all exceptionally fine
designs.
Sometimes extremely elaborate patterns were woven in earlier days. An
exquisitely woven coverlet as fine as linen sheeting, a corner of which
is here shown, has an elaborate border of patriotic and Masonic
emblems, patriotic inscriptions, and the name of the maker, a Red Hook,
Hudson valley, dame of a century ago, who wove this beautiful bedspread
as the crowning treasure of her bridal outfit. The "setting-up" of such
a design as this is entirely beyond my skill as a weaver to explain or
even comprehend. But it is evident that the border must have been woven
by taking up a single warp-thread at a time, with a wire needle, not by
passing a shuttle, as it is far too complicated and varied for any
treadle-harness to be able to make a shed for a shuttle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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