United States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
In the summer of 1775, when all the preparations for the War of the
Revolution were in a most unsettled and depressing condition, especially
the supplies for the Continental army, the Provincial Congress made a
demand on the people for thirteen thousand warm coats to be ready for
the soldiers by cold weather. There were no great contractors then as
now to supply the cloth and make the garments, but by hundreds of
hearthstones throughout the country wool-wheels and hand-looms were
started eagerly at work, and the order was filled by the handiwork of
patriotic American women. In the record book of some New England towns
may still be found the lists of the coat-makers. In the inside of each
coat was sewed the name of the town and the maker. Every soldier
volunteering for eight months' service was given one of these homespun,
home-made, all-wool coats as a bounty. So highly were these "Bounty
Coats" prized, that the heirs of soldiers who were killed at Bunker Hill
before receiving their coats were given a sum of money instead. The list
of names of soldiers who then enlisted is known to this day as the "Coat
Roll," and the names of the women who made the coats might form another
roll of honor. The English sneeringly called Washington's army the
"Homespuns." It was a truthful nickname, but there was deeper power in
the title than the English scoffers knew.
The starting up of power-looms and the wonderful growth of woollen
manufacture did not crowd out homespun as speedily in America as in
England. When the poet Whittier set out from the Quaker farmhouse to go
to Boston to seek his fortune, he wore a homespun suit every part of
which, even the horn buttons, was of domestic manufacture. Many a man
born since Whittier has grown to manhood clothed for every-day wear
wholly with homespun; and many a boy is living who was sent to college
dressed wholly in a "full-cloth" suit, with horn buttons or buttons made
of discs of heavy leather.
During the Civil War spinning and weaving were revived arts in the
Confederate cities; and, as ever in earlier days, proved a most valuable
economic resource under restricted conditions. In the home of a friend
in Charleston, South Carolina, an old, worm-eaten loom was found in a
garret where it had lain since the embargo in 1812. It was set up in
1863, and plantation carpenters made many like it for neighbors and
fellow-citizens. All women in the mountain districts knew how to use the
loom, and taught weaving to many others, both white and black. A portion
of the warp, which was cotton, was spun at home; more was bought from a
cotton-factory. My friend sacrificed a great number of excellent
wool-mattresses; this wool was spun into yarn and used for weft, and
formed a most grateful and dignified addition to the varied, grotesque,
and interesting makeshifts of the wardrobe of the Southern Confederacy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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