Food is so much a matter of taste and custom, that it seems absurd to
make dogmatic remarks about the superiority of one kitchen to another.
If you like cold mutton, boiled potatoes and rice pudding, most days
in the week, you like them and there is an end of it. The one thing
you can say for certain is that to cook for you requires neither skill
nor pains, while to cook for a German family, even if it lives plainly
and poorly, takes time and trouble. In trying to compare the methods
of two nations, one must naturally be careful to compare households on
the same social plane; and an English household that lives on cold
mutton and rice pudding is certainly a plain and probably a poor one.
In well-to-do English households you get the best food in the world as
far as raw material goes, but it must be said that you often get poor
cooking. It passes quite unnoticed too. No one seems to mind thick
soups that are too thick and gravies that are tasteless, and melted
butter like Stickphast paste, and savouries quite acrid with over much
vinegar and anchovy. I once saw a whole company of English people
contentedly eat a dish of hot scones that had gone wrong. They tasted
of strong yellow soap. But I once saw a company of Germans eat bad
fish and apparently like it. They were sea soles handed round in a
Swiss hotel, and they should by rights have been buried the day
before. I thought of Ottilie von Schlippenschlopp and the oysters. But
the soles were carefully cooked, and served with an elaborate sauce.
* * * * *
GREEN CORN SOUP.--For six people take 7 oz. of green corn: wash it
well in hot water, and cook it until it is quite soft in stock or salt
water. Put it through a sieve, add boiling stock, and serve with fried
slice of bread or with small semolina dumplings.
GREEN CORN SOUP.--Another way. For six people take 5-½ oz. of green
corn, wash it well in hot water, and let it simmer for a few minutes
with a little stock and 1-½ oz. butter. Then add strong stock, and let
it simmer slowly with the lid on till the corn is soft. Then stir a
tablespoonful of fine flour with half a cupful of milk, and add it to
the soup, stirring all the time. This must then cook an hour longer.
When ready to serve, mix the yolks of two eggs with a little sour
cream, and add the soup carefully so that it is not curdled. The soup
is not strained through a sieve when it is served without dumplings.
The little dumplings are first cooked as a panada of semolina, butter,
milk and egg, and then dropped into the soup and cooked in it for ten
minutes.
CHAPTER XVI
SHOPS AND MARKETS
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