Now the Japanese suit is complete. In summer we wear the _yukata_, or the coarse unlined cotton _kimono_, at home, or an unlined dress of cotton or other material with underwear when we go out. We always put on our clothes by folding the left over the right. The clothes are folded one by one, that is, the underwear is first folded left over right, over it the doublet, and lastly the _kimono_ which, if double, are folded in pairs. The principle in putting them on is that their bands shall alternate right and left and the folds form gradations widening with the outer garments, so that from the bands one can tell the quantity of clothing a man has put on. We wind the _obi_ over the _kimono_. If it is the unlined crêpe, we merely wind it round and either tuck in the ends under the folds or tie them behind; but if it is the square _obi_, we leave behind one end about ten inches long and winding the _obi_ twice round, fold the other end, the tip of which is tucked under the fold, at such a length that a foot or so of the doubled end is left over. The two ends are tied together in a double knot with the two extremities slanting upward one on each side of the knot. The knot is tied behind over the spine, the _obi_ being wound just above the hips. Over the _kimono_ we wear the _haori_. The _haori_ is neither a greatcoat nor a coat properly so called; for we wear it on all occasions and indoors, and yet we may on informal occasions take it off without breach of good manners. Indeed, a man who walks abroad without a _haori_ would be in an entirely different position to one who goes about in shirt sleeves. The crested _haori_, which is invariably worn on formal occasions, is a ready means of identification; and accordingly, when we are unwilling to attract attention or to risk recognition, the uncrested is commonly put on. The _hakama_ is worn when we have to be properly dressed, on occasions, that is to say, when one would wear a frock-coat or an evening dress; at schools and in government offices the _hakama_ is indispensable when Japanese clothes are worn. In putting on a _hakama_, the front band is first brought flush with the upper edge of the _obi_ and the ends are each passed once and half round the body and tied behind under the knot of the _obi_; and then the board at the back is perched over the same knot to prevent its slipping down, and the ends of its bands are tied in front. The socks are worn with all clothes except the _yukata_; but many people go about barefooted, save in winter. The white is the colour worn on formal occasions; but the black is popular as it wears better than the other and does not betray the dirt when it is soiled. Only young children wear socks of other colours, such as red and yellow. CHAPTER VIII. FEMALE DRESS.