Under the _kimono_ a woman wears much the same clothing as a man;
but unlike him, she wears two loin-cloths. The lower one, which
is the loin-cloth proper, is a piece of bleached cotton wound round
the hips and coming down to the knees. It is called in Japanese the
“bath-cloth,” as it was formerly, and still is in some parts of the
country, worn when a woman takes a bath. The upper loin-cloth, called
the “hip-wrap,” is more ornamental; it is tied round the hips like
the bath-cloth, but comes down to the feet. It is usually made of
_mousseline de laine_ or crêpe, and is red for girls, of a gay colour
with fanciful patterns for young women, and white for matrons. This
hip-wrap is replaced in winter by what we call a “long chemise,” which
is practically a _kimono_ made without the tuck and of the exact
height of the wearer. Over the neck-band is sewn an ornamental band
called “half-band,” which is usually of crêpe, though some other light
silk may be used, red for young girls and of various colours, white,
black, violet, blue, or grey for grown-up persons. Flowers, birds, or
landscapes are embroidered on it with gold or silver threads or with
silk. This ornamental half-band is worn on the chemise or other
underwear next to the _kimono_. The _kimono_, the upper one if two are
worn, which is for home wear, is usually covered over the neck-band
with an over-band of satin.
Women wear, like men, _haori_ of various descriptions, the crested
_haori_ of black crêpe, the uncrested made of silk, striped, spotted,
or of other pattern, and the long _haori_, which though often
less wadded than men’s, reaches like theirs below the knees. A woman’s
_haori_ differs from a man’s, like the _kimono_, in having sleeves
open on the inner side and a loop-hole under the arm.
The _hakama_ is worn by school-girls and their teachers, and by some
of the court ladies. The girl’s _hakama_ differs from man’s in not
being divided. It is simply round like the European skirt; but it has
plaits which are not, however, so deep or so marked as men’s. It is
open, like theirs, at the sides near the _obi_ and tied in the same
way.
The Japanese woman’s pride, however, is the _obi_. It is often the
most costly of all her apparel. It is about thirteen feet long and
thirteen and a half inches wide. The _obi_ for ordinary wear is made
by sewing together back to back two pieces of cloth, of which the face
is commonly of stiff stuff like satin and the lining of crêpe, or
other soft silk or cotton. But the _obi_ worn on formal occasions
consists of a single piece of double width, which is folded in two
lengthwise and seamed; it is made of taffety, satin, damask, or gold
or other brocade. The Chinese satin has at one end the name of its
loom in red thread; and imitation satins and sateens have similar
names at the same end; and this end is always exposed to view when
the _obi_ is worn. When sewn, the woman’s _obi_ is padded like men’s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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