Women wear nothing on their heads except in midwinter for fear of
deranging their elaborate coiffure. The large chignon is as great a
protection against heat, cold, and wind as any European bonnet. In
winter, however, women wear a hood of _mousseline de laine_ or crêpe
lined with common silk. It is oblong in shape, being five feet
long by about two wide; it is folded in two and at one side, about a
foot from the fold, the edges are sewn together for an inch. The loop
thus formed is the face-opening. The hood is put carefully over the
head so that the face is visible at the opening, and a loop of string
on either side of the fold is passed over the ear to keep the hood in
place; and the ends of the hood are brought forward, folded loosely
over the nose, mouth, and throat, and tied together behind on the
neck. The hood which lies lightly on the head can be taken off without
deranging the hair to any extent. Women are expected to take off the
hood when they meet an acquaintance in the street, though they omit to
do so if he is an intimate friend. The hood keeps the head, neck, and
shoulders very warm.
[Illustration: A HOOD.]
At one time shawls were much in vogue and worn together with the hood;
but they have of late fallen out of favour. Their place is taken by
“azuma-coats,” which are overdresses worn over the _kimono_. They
resemble the latter in form, except that they are looser and have much
wider bands which come down to the skirt and dispense with gores
altogether. In the latest forms the sleeves are very large; the front
is double-breasted with the throat open; and the overlapping parts
button at the breast by means of a loop and knot and are tied at the
hip with a string. They are made of silk. They are vulgarly known as
“rag-concealers,” as many women put them on when they go out to hide
the shabby dresses underneath. Men’s favourite overcoat for the
_kimono_ is a kind of Inverness cape, with a long skirt to cover the
_kimono_ and large arm-holes for the sleeves. These are also made of
wool. Among the lower classes there are still men in Tokyo who wear,
as do peasants in the country, a straw rain-coat which covers the
body and the sleeves, but leaves the legs bare; they are unpleasant
neighbours in an electric car on a rainy day. The majority, however,
especially coolies, messengers, and postmen, put on a coat shaped like
the _haori_ and made of waterproof oil-paper or rubber-cloth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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