Homes and Haunts of the Most Eminent British Poets, Vol. 2 (of 2)Howitt, William
General
Homes and Haunts of the Most Eminent British Poets, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Howitt, William
Literary landmarks -- Great Britain; Poets, English -- Homes and haunts
It was on a fine, fresh morning, after much rain, that, with a smart
lad as driver, I sped in a gig from Galashiels up the valley on the
way to Ashestiel. The sweet stream of the Gala water ran on our left,
murmuring deliciously, and noble woods right and left, among them the
classic mansion of Torwoodlee, and wood-crowned banks, made the way
beautiful. Anon we came out to the open country, bare but pleasant
hills, and small light streams careering along the valleys, and
shepherds, with their dogs at their heels, setting out on their long
rounds for the day. There was an inspiriting life and freshness in
every thing--air, earth, and sky. The way is about six miles in
length, from Galashiels to Ashestiel. About three parts of this was
passed when we came to Clovenfoot, a few houses among the green hills,
where Scott used often to lodge for days and weeks at the little inn,
before he got to Ashestiel. The country about Ashestiel consists of
moorland hills, still showing the darkness of the heather upon them.
It is wilder, and has an air of greater loneliness than the pastoral
mountains of Ettrick and Moffatdale; and the pleasant surprise is the
more lively, when at once, in the midst of this brown and treeless
region, after going on wondering where this Ashestiel can have hidden
itself, not a house or a trace of existence being visible, but bare
hill beyond hill, you suddenly see before you, down in a deep valley,
a mass of beautiful woodlands emerging into view; the Tweed displays
its broad and rapid stream at the foot of this richly wooded scene,
and a tasteful house on the elevated bank beyond the river shows its
long front and gables over the tree-tops. This is Ashestiel, the
residence of Scott, where he wrote Marmion and commenced Waverley. We
descended to the Tweed, where there is no bridge, but a ford, called
by Scott "none of the best," "that ugly ford," which after long rains
is sometimes carried away, and instead of a ford becomes a gulf. I
remembered the incident of Scott himself being once pushed into it,
when his horse found no bottom and had to swim across; and of a cart
bringing the new kitchen-range being upset, and leaving the much
desired fireplace at the bottom. The river was now much swollen, but
my stout-hearted lad said he did not fear it; he often went there; and
so we passed boldly through the powerful stream, and up the woodland
bank to the house. The proprietor and present occupant, Major General
Sir James Russell, a relative of Sir Walter's, was just about to mount
his horse to go out, but very kindly turned back and introduced me to
Lady Russell, an elegant and very agreeable woman, the sister of Sir
James and Captain Basil Hall. They showed me the house with the
greatest pleasure, and pressed me to stay luncheon. The house, Sir
James said, was in Scott's time much less than at present. It was a
farmhouse made out of an old border tower, by his father, and in the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account