Her ship-saving talents led directly to her deification, and she has
since acquired two invaluable assistants, Thousand-Mile Eyes and
Fair-Wind Ears. Her principal temple is at Joss House Bay on Tung Lung
Island, about two miles east of Hong Kong Island. On her birthday, an
all-day ferry service brings her worshippers from the main island, and
the boat people arrive in sea-trains of junks towed by a launch, flying
dozens of flags and Happy-Birthday banners. Every boat is packed to the
gunwales with men, women and children jostling one another as they reach
for sweet cakes, tea and soft drinks. At Joss House Bay, the passengers
swarm ashore as if the boats were about to sink and climb a wide granite
stairway to the temple. Incense sticks are lighted, roasted animals and
red eggs are placed before the Goddess and a small contribution is handed
to the temple attendant.
Bursting firecrackers, lion dances and processions enliven the
celebration until the men of the various fishing guilds wind it up with
a hot scramble for “the luck,” a bamboo projectile with a number inside.
It drops into the crowd like a bride’s bouquet, but the free-for-all that
follows is no place for a bridesmaid. The winning team makes the year’s
luck and gets possession of an elaborate portable shrine to the Queen of
Heaven. Rich and poor, humble and great join without class distinction in
having a gossipy, boisterous holiday.
The people of Cheung Chau feel obliged to say a kind word for all the
animals and fish who were executed to feed mankind during the past
year, and this debt is squared by the four-day Bun Festival on their
dumbbell-shaped island. Its date is set by lot, and usually falls in the
last few days of the Third Moon or the first ten days of the Fourth Moon.
No animals are killed and no fish are caught during the festival. Troupes
of actors are imported to perform in an enormous temporary theater, with
its roof of coarse matting supported on a bamboo framework tied together
with rattan strips. Daily and nightly presentations of Cantonese Opera
are put on with the performers in elaborate costumes, shrilling their
lines above the tireless clamor of cymbals.
The festival centerpiece consists of a triple-peaked bun mountain,
or conical framework covered with varicolored buns from its base to
its 60-foot summit. As soon as it is completed, it is covered with a
tarpaulin to protect the buns until the climactic ceremony on the final
day of the festival.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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