Once the British held exclusive title to the foggy heights; in the days
before auto roads were built to the top, they chartered the Peak Tram to
carry their party guests to its upper end, where they were met by sedan
chairs which took them the rest of the way. Now Chinese millionaires
share the majesty and the mist of the Peak, and there are tall apartment
buildings for more exalted government employees and prosperous civilians.
To tourists and Taipans, the heights of Victoria Peak offer a matchless
view of the harbor. The distant deep-blue water crinkles in the wind as
the sun glints on its surface. Dozens of ferryboats point their arrowhead
wakes at Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, or head outward for the coasts and
islands of the New Territories. An American aircraft carrier rides at
anchor off Wanchai with its escort vessels near at hand.
West of Kowloon Peninsula, a triple line of cargo ships turn lazily
around their anchor buoys; each one having enough room to make a full
circle without touching another ship. Six rows of junks and sampans,
each row lashed to the sides of a freighter while they transfer its
cargo, move in unison with the freighter’s slow swing, looking like a
gargantuan, improvised raft. Unattached junks duck in and out, anywhere
and everywhere, clearly with the special blessings of T’ien Hou, for they
rarely collide.
North of the harbor, beyond the wedge-shaped outline of Kowloon, past the
Kai Tak airstrip that cuts through Kowloon Bay like the white streak of
a torpedo, is Hong Kong’s “Great Wall”—a line of hills that looms jagged
and forbidding across the southern fringe of the New Territories. These
are the “nine dragons” from which Kowloon got its name, but they are
difficult to single out, except for unmistakable ones like Lion Rock and
Kowloon Peak, because they are so tightly packed together.
Even Ti Ping, the Sung Emperor who was prodded into naming them the Nine
Dragons, complained that he could find only eight, until an obliging
courtier reminded him that the dragon is the symbol of the Emperor, thus
making him the ninth peak. Ti Ping, quite young at the time, was placated
by this rationalization.
Due west of Victoria Peak, small islands string out like steppingstones
until the eye stops at the ridge-backed mass of Lantau, largest island
in the colony and nearly twice the size of Hong Kong Island. Some of the
defeated followers of Ti Ping are reported to have settled there after
the death of their Emperor, but until a few years ago it was a barren and
remote isle, inhabited only by a few thousand farmers and fishermen and a
few monasteries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account