The Buddhist monastery of Po Lin Chi, on a mountain plateau two miles
north of Shek Pik, is inhabited by a small community of monks and
nuns living from the produce of its fruit trees and gardens and the
contributions of pilgrims who struggle up a mountain path to visit
the retreat. Visitors are welcome and may stay overnight at a guest
house on the grounds. Meals are prepared on wood fires in an ancient,
smoke-stained kitchen. Surrounded by its orchards and with two or three
massive tombs on the surrounding hills, Po Lin Chi is a quiet echo of
James Hilton’s _Shangri-La_.
There are other monasteries on Lantau, with the Trappist Monastery at Tai
Shui Hang, in the northeast part of the island, perhaps the best-known.
In the last decade its community of 22 priests, lay brothers and novices
has planted and redeveloped its large farm acreage.
Tai O town, on the west coast of Lantau, is its largest settlement, with
nearly 8,000 inhabitants. Tai O has a community of Tanka fishing people
living in wooden huts raised on stakes over a muddy inlet. A regular
ferry service brings hiking parties from Hong Kong Island to toil up
the hillsides to Po Lin Chi. They stay overnight at its guest house and
descend on the opposite side of the mountains to catch the ferry at
Silver Mine Bay for the trip home.
For a completely different kind of scenery, the inquisitive traveler may
visit Tap Mun Chau, an island at the eastern edge of the New Territories.
The Kowloon-Canton Railway takes him to Tai Po Station on Tolo Harbor,
where he may catch the Tap Mun Chau ferry. The boat nudges up to the
foot of Ma On Shan, a craggy, 2,300-foot peak, unloads a cargo of pigs
and a few Hakka farmers, and pushes east through Tolo Channel, bordered
by round hills. Three Fathoms Cove is the boat’s second stop. It is just
south of Plover Cove, the deep inlet from Tolo Channel which colony
engineers propose to seal off, pump out its salt-water contents, and
replace with a fresh-water reservoir.
Most of the stops along this six-hour run are made offshore, disembarking
passengers reaching land in small sampans. The boat turns south at the
seaward end of Tolo Channel and travels the length of Long Harbor between
high, barren hills. Looking at these hills, the passenger may understand
how easily Chinese pirates of the last century could slip out of this
hidden harbor, pounce on passing ships and make their escape behind the
sheltering mountains.
Villages are strung along the water’s edge at intervals, but their
shallow harbors and small docks cannot handle the ferry boat. The usual
sampan, sometimes adroitly propelled by a pair of half-grown boys, rows
out to meet the larger boat. There is a dock-side stop at Tap Mun town,
where the harbor is crowded with fishing junks, but the layover is too
short to permit a walk ashore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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