House and Home Papers: Seventh EditionStowe, Harriet Beecher
General
House and Home Papers: Seventh Edition
Stowe, Harriet Beecher
Home economics
A very common mode of aerating bread, in America, is by the
effervescence of an acid and an alkali in the flour. The carbonic acid
gas thus formed produces minute air-cells in the bread, or, as the cook
says, makes it light. When this process is performed with exact
attention to chemical laws, so that the acid and alkali completely
neutralize each other, leaving no overplus of either, the result is
often very palatable. The difficulty is, that this is a happy
conjunction of circumstances which seldom occurs. The acid most commonly
employed is that of sour milk, and, as milk has many degrees of
sourness, the rule of a certain quantity of alkali to the pint must
necessarily produce very different results at different times. As an
actual fact, where this mode of making bread prevails, as we lament to
say it does to a great extent in this country, one finds five cases of
failure to one of success. It is a woful thing that the daughters of New
England have abandoned the old respectable mode of yeast-brewing and
bread-raising for this specious substitute, so easily made, and so
seldom well made. The green, clammy, acrid substance, called biscuit,
which many of our worthy republicans are obliged to eat in these days,
is wholly unworthy of the men and women of the Republic. Good patriots
ought not to be put off in that way,—they deserve better fare.
As an occasional variety, as a household convenience for obtaining bread
or biscuit at a moment’s notice, the process of effervescence may be
retained; but we earnestly entreat American housekeepers, in Scriptural
language, to stand in the way and ask for the old paths, and return to
the good yeast-bread of their sainted grandmothers.
If acid and alkali must be used, by all means let them be mixed in due
proportions. No cook should be left to guess and judge for herself about
this matter. There is an article, called “Preston’s Infallible
Yeast-Powder,” which is made by chemical rule, and produces very perfect
results. The use of this obviates the worst dangers in making bread by
effervescence.
Of all processes of aeration in bread-making, the oldest and most
time-honored is by fermentation. That this was known in the days of our
Saviour is evident from the forcible simile in which he compares the
silent permeating force of truth in human society to the very familiar
household process of raising bread by a little yeast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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