It may be remarked, in passing, that this is a crude method of making a propeller, and the result cannot be very good. It is given here because it is the easiest way, and the propeller will work. A much better way is described further on--and the better the propeller, the better any model will fly. But for a novice, no time will be lost in making this one, for the experience gained will enable the model-builder to do better work with the second one than he could do without it. For the aeroplane body we get out a straight spar of spruce, ¼ inch square and 15½ inches long. At the front end of this--on the upper side--is to be glued a small triangular piece of wood to serve as a support for the forward or steering plane, tilting it up at the front edge at the angle represented by a rise of 1 in 8. This block should be shaped on its upper side to fit the curve of the under side of the steering-plane, which will be screwed to it. The steering-plane is cut according to plan, out of 1/16 inch whitewood, planed down gradually to be at the ends about half that thickness. This plane is to be steamed and bent to a curve (fore and aft) as shown in the sectional view. The steam should play on the _convex_ side of the bend while it is being shaped. To hold it in proper form until it is set, blocks with curved slots may be used, or it may be bound with thread to a moulding block of equal length formed to the proper curve. When thoroughly dry it is to be smoothed with the emery cloth, and a strip of tracing cloth--glossy face out--is to be glued across each end, to prevent breaking in case of a fall. It is then to be varnished with shellac, and polished, as directed for the propeller. Indeed, it should be said once for all that every part of the model should be as glossy as it is possible to make it without adding to the weight, and that all “entering edges” (those which push into and divide the air when in flight) should be as sharp as is practicable with the material used. The steering-plane is to be fastened in place by a single screw long enough to pierce the plane and the supporting block, and enter the spar. The hole for this screw (as for all screws used) should be drilled carefully, to avoid the least splitting of the wood, and just large enough to have the screw “bite” without forcing its way in. This screw which holds the plane is to be screwed “home” but not too tight, so that in case the flying model should strike upon it in falling, the slender plane will swivel, and not break. It will be noticed that while this screw passes through the centre of the plane sideways, it is nearer to the forward edge than to the rear edge. If the work has been accurate, the plane will balance if the spar is supported--upon the finger, perhaps, as that is sensitive to any tendency to tipping. If either wing is too heavy, restore the balance by filing a little from the tip of that wing.