How It Flies; or, The Conquest of the Air: The Story of Man's Endeavors to Fly and of the Inventions by Which He Has SucceededFerris, Richard
Science
How It Flies; or, The Conquest of the Air: The Story of Man's Endeavors to Fly and of the Inventions by Which He Has Succeeded
Ferris, Richard
Aeronautics
When the biplane is completed it is to be fastened securely to the spar
in such a position that it is accurately balanced--from side to side.
The spar may be laid on a table, and the biplane placed across it in
its approximate position. Then move the plane to one side until it tips
down, and mark the spot on the rear edge of the plane. Repeat this
operation toward the other side, and the centre between the two marks
should be accurately fastened over the centre line of the spar. Even
with the greatest care there may still be failure to balance exactly,
but a little work with a file on the heavy side, or a bit of chewing
gum stuck on the lighter side, will remedy the matter.
The body of the aeroplane being now built, it is in order to fit it
with propelling mechanism. The motive power to whirl the propeller we
have already prepared is to be the torsion, or twisting strain--in this
case the force of untwisting--of india rubber. When several strands
of pure rubber cord are twisted up tight, their elasticity tends to
untwist them with considerable force. The attachment for the rubber
strands at the front end of the spar is a sort of bracket made of the
brass wire. The ends of the wire are turned up just a little, and they
are set into little holes in the under side of the spar. Where the wire
turns downward to form the hook it is bound tightly to the spar with
silk thread. The hook-shaped tip is formed of the loop of the wire
doubled upon itself. The rear attachment of the rubber strands is a
loop upon the propeller shaft itself. As shown in the drawings, this
shaft is but a piece of the brass wire. On one end (the rear) an open
loop is formed, and into this is slipped the centre of the propeller.
The short end of the loop is then twisted around the longer shank--very
carefully, lest the wire cut into and destroy the propeller. Two turns
of the wire is enough, and then the tip of the twisted end should be
worked down flat with the file, to serve as a bearing for the propeller
against the thrust-block. This latter is made of a piece of sheet brass
(a bit of printers’ brass “rule” is just the thing) about 1/40 of an
inch thick. It should be ¼ of an inch wide except at the forward end,
where it is to be filed to a long point and bent up a trifle to enter
the wood of the spar. The rear end is bent down (not too sharply, lest
it break) to form the bearing for the propeller, a hole being drilled
through it for the propeller shaft, just large enough for the shaft to
turn freely in it. Another smaller hole is to be drilled for a little
screw to enter the rear end of the spar. Next pass the straight end
of the propeller shaft through the hole drilled for it, and with the
pliers form a round hook for the rear attachment of the rubber strands.
Screw the brass bearing into place, and for additional strength, wind
a binding of silk thread around it and the spar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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