Besides these transient acquaintanceships which, however brief, are by no
means without their value to one's experience and culture, the foreign way
of understanding a _table d'hôte_ includes the daily and habitual meeting
of regular subscribers, a meeting looked forward to with pleasure as a
break in the labors of the day, or a mental refreshment when they are
over. Nothing affords such relief from the pressure of work as a free and
animated conversation on other subjects. Of this more permanent kind of
_table d'hôte_, Mr. Lewes gave a lively description in his biography of
Goethe:--
"The English student, clerk, or bachelor, who dines at an
eating-house, chop-house, or hotel, goes there simply to get his
dinner, and perhaps look at the 'Times.' Of the other diners he knows
nothing, cares little. It is rare that a word is interchanged between
him and his neighbor. Quite otherwise in Germany. There the same
society is generally to be found at the same table. The _table d'hôte_
is composed of a circle of _habitués_, varied by occasional visitors
who in time become, perhaps, members of the circle. _Even with
strangers conversation is freely interchanged_; and in a little while
friendships are formed over these dinner-tables, according as natural
tastes and likings assimilate, which, extending beyond the mere hour
of dinner, are carried into the current of life. Germans do not rise
so hastily from the table as we, for time with them is not so
precious; life is not so crowded; time can be found for quiet
after-dinner talk. The cigars and coffee, which appear before the
cloth is removed, keep the company together; and in that state of
suffused comfort which quiet digestion creates, they hear without
anger the opinions of antagonists."
In this account of German habits we see the repast made use of as an
opportunity for human intercourse, which the Englishman avoids except with
persons already known to him or known to a private host. The reader has
noticed the line I have italicized,--"Even with strangers conversation is
freely interchanged." The consequence is that the stranger does not feel
himself to be isolated, and if he is not an Englishman he does not take
offence at being treated like an intelligent human being, but readily
accepts the welcome that is offered to him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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