Hurrell Froude: Memoranda and CommentsGuiney, Louise Imogen
History
Hurrell Froude: Memoranda and Comments
Guiney, Louise Imogen
Froude, Richard Hurrell, 1803-1836
‘_Feb. 6._――At anchor off Nevis,――between it and St. Christopher’s,
which the Protestants have vulgarised into St. Kitt’s. The Bishop is
ashore confirming, and I have stayed to fetch up leeway. Since Monday,
Jan. 26, when we started on our voyage, I have been in quite a new
state of things…. I have a very uncomfortable hot, dark berth, which I
could go into amusing details about, if it was worth the trouble; but
“beggars must not be choosers,” as they say, so I may think myself
well off to have any berth at all. The first place we got to was
Antigua. About seven in the morning I came on deck, and found we were
close to it: quite unlike Barbados; it put me in mind of Ithaca, or
bits of the Sicilian coast: very beautiful, but on a small scale.
While we stood off and on before what seemed an iron-bound coast, a
pilot-boat emerged from one-could-not-say-where; and when the pilot
was on board, we tacked, and sailed straight against a rock. As we got
quite close, it began to appear that the shore was not a continuous
line, but that one rock overlapped another, and between these there
turned out to be an entrance about a gun-shot wide, which took us into
a beautiful little lake, where there was just room to anchor. You will
find it in the map, under the name English Harbour. And now I will not
go on bothering with descriptions. We landed at the dockyard, where a
file of soldiers were drawn up in compliment to the Bishop, and as he
stepped out of the boat the batteries saluted. That part of Antigua is
exquisitely beautiful; very deep bays and rocks, and pasture and wood
and mountains, put the sugar and the niggers quite out of one’s head.
The people seem a superior set to what you have elsewhere. I liked
some of the clergy much, and the resident proprietors are said to be,
with some exceptions, intelligent gentlemen…. We were at Antigua six
days; since that we have been at Montserrat and Nevis, both
mountainous on a large scale, and generally lost in cloud. Nevis is
not unlike Pantelaria. Yesterday we dined at the President’s,[168] and
had turtle for the first time.
To the Rev. JOHN KEBLE, Feb. 8, 1834.
‘Here I am with the Bishop on his Visitation, so that I have the
advantage of a good long sea-voyage and some variety of scenery, both
[of] which are good for me, though I cannot say they have as yet
produced any perceptible effect. I seem to be just as well and no
better than I was last summer; in fact, this is nothing else than a
protracted summer, and it is unreasonable to expect more from climate
here than from the same climate in England. You will see in my letter
to [Newman] how I have employed my time in Barbados, and the length
that I am being pulled on in anti-Protestantism. Would not Hammond,
and Fell, and the rest of those holy humble men of God have altered
the Articles?[169]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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