Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
At noon we arrived at a small farm under a high cliff at some distance
from the sea. It is called _Hlíðarendi_, (not to be confounded with
_Hlíðarendi_, the home of _Gunnar_), the usual Icelandic farm in an
unusual situation. The buildings stand at the back of an amphitheatre.
The surrounding cliffs are five hundred feet in elevation above the
buildings. At the base of the cliff three generous streams of water flow
out of the mountain. This is water that has sunk into the moorland near
the base of the distant mountains and has found a passage through the
cracked lava. Climbing to the top of the bluff I found an extensive
moorland where numerous sheep were grazing and hundreds of whimbrels and
plover. I spent two hours in stalking the plover with the camera. They
finally allowed me to approach within fifteen feet of them. In the winter
several hundreds of ptarmigan live upon this heath and the farmer shoots
them for the English market. They are shipped in a frozen condition and
are used in the London Clubs.
The view from the bluffs is extensive. At the foot of the cliffs lay
the _tún_ dotted with bundles of hay. Beyond the _tún_ extends a waste
of lava blocks and sand and then the sea, blue and surging. To the
north rises range above range of the barren volcanoes of _Reykjaness_,
Smoking Cape. I found the descent of the bluffs much more difficult than
the ascent. The cliffs are clothed with a rich carpet of grass and an
abundance of flowers in full bloom. Here the _Spiraea_ lifts its purple
spikes high above the grass, the dandelions and _Arnica_ sprinkle the
area with patches of bright yellow: beside the water pockets and embedded
in the sphagnum moss the orchids bloom profusely: wild geraniums fringe
the angular lava and many plants peculiar to this high latitude fill in
the remainder of the floral scheme.
Mrs. Russell had considerable labor in restoring order to the packing
cases and in spreading our clothes upon the rocks to dry. In the passage
of the _Ólfusá_, our cases filled with water though they were supposed
to be waterproof. The jog, jog, jog of the ponies had stirred up towels,
soap, bread, tobacco, camera films, cocoa, tea, note books and other
items and churned these ingredients into one common mass with salt water
better than it could have been done with any Yankee washing machine. This
was the reason we ended our journey at noon this day. The camera films
were uninjured as I had taken the precaution to place each film in a
metal box and seal it. These same boxes have since been around the world
with another traveller and did similar excellent service for him in the
jungles of India. All camera films taken to Iceland for transportation
on a pony should be soldered water proof. They are easily opened and the
empty tin will take the exposed film. This can may be securely sealed
against moisture by winding the joint with several turns of waterproof
tape.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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