Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
It seemed but a short walk, a quarter of a mile at most, from the house
to the columns of steam belching from the side of the hill. Although we
were accustomed to the deceptive distances in this clear atmosphere, this
time we were thoroughly deluded. That walk of ten minutes lengthened into
one of an hour as the distance proved to be fully three miles. Crossing
the meadow we climbed a gentle slope of clay and sulfur to the very
edge of the solfatara. What a weird and impressive scene it is! Every
beauty of form and color, every horror of sound and odor are here united.
Unnumbered tons of sublimed sulfur are piled in banks and pyramids at
the base of the cliffs. Great pools of boiling bolus hiss, splutter
and stink. The air is foul with hot hydrogen sulfid and stifling with
sulfur dioxid. Wavering columns of steam render the walking dangerous
as oftentimes one can not see the place where he is about to set his
foot. We crunched through the beds of monoclinic crystals and frequently
slumped into them to the knee and when we pulled the leg from the hole
a new column of steam shot into the air. Geologists who have examined
this place have had unpleasant experiences because of approaching too
near to the centers of activity. Hooker states that “In endeavoring to
avoid one of these unpleasant gusts, (of steam), which threatened to
annoy me while I was gathering some specimens, I jumped up to my knees
in a semi-liquid mass of hot sulphur.” What a thing of beauty is a hole
in these warm sulfur needles! They are like needles, three to six inches
long and glisten with the purest amber glow. The viscid mass of clay and
mineral earths stick to the boots and it is often a task to withdraw the
feet from the clinging mess. The appearance of the surface is deceitful,
for often when it seems most secure the crust breaks and a spurt of hot
steam shoots up beside the leg in a very unpleasant manner. A thin hard
crust of sulfur often conceals a seething mass of the same material and
one literally walks, “_Perignes, suppositos cineri doloso_.”[6] Elevated
rims about the sizzling pools hold the viscid mass in place except when
a sudden eruption of steam causes the material to slop over the sides
of the basins in a frightful manner. Add to this the steam-filled air,
the moaning of the cauldrons, the roar of the escaping gases from a hole
high up in the side of the talus and the thought that the whole area may
collapse into the bowels of the earth or explode with volcanic force and
the mental situation is complete.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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