Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
One afternoon when the fog hung heavily upon fiord and mountain, with
four of my _Matador_ companions I set out to examine a glacial moraine
which hangs upon the side of _Bíhólsfjall_, upon which I had looked with
longing eye through a telescope the previous summer. Upward we climbed
and when at an elevation of only a hundred feet above the fiord, the
entire valley, all its buildings, the fiord and its shipping disappeared
from view as if by enchantment. Many sounds came up through the fog in a
strange jumble of discordant notes; a Norwegian tramp steamer was stowing
a cargo of clip fish, hammers clanged in the little machine shop at our
feet, so near that we could have tossed a stone upon its roof and the
clack-clack-clack of a pony’s hoofs pacing the highway in haste to take
its rider into a refuge from the storm. The rain came down in earnest
but there was no wind. This was a strange condition under which to climb
a mountain, whose slopes are deeply scored with crossing gullies, where
patches of moorland stretch between ridges of talus and one may easily
lose his way, but we desired the experience and difficult as was the
climb it was well worth all the effort. If we separated from each other
three rods we were lost to view. It was uncanny, this wandering among
the gullies and carrying on a conversation with moving and invisible
beings, almost ghostly. The fog, like fleecy blankets, hung around and
rolled over us in wisps like broad bands of cotton, so that we literally
stretched and tore it as we climbed through it. Two of my companions
clung to the brook, where plant life was more vigorous, and it was a
wise precaution if one did not know the direction of the ravines or the
slope of the moorland. With the other two I turned toward the southwest
and we were guided by the number of the ravines we crossed and the roar
of a waterfall on the escarpment. We traversed a boggy area and finally
reached the extensive moraine that was formerly pushed over the cliffs
by the moving ice and is now being worked by the winter frosts and the
deluge of water descending during the summer from the melting snows on
the heights above. By the aneroid we had climbed to an elevation of
2,000 feet above the fiord. Here we turned and descended by the steep
stairway of columnar basalt to the valley, not once having been out of
the thick fog. Our tramp yielded considerable profit in the examination
of the debris on the mountain side where we found excellent specimens of
water-worn liparite, that the glacier had transported from the interior
in former days. We also found fine specimens of chalcedony geods. These
were enclosed in the pre-glacial lava, but the frost action has split the
rock and the geods are easily removed. They are about the size of goose
eggs. As we stumbled through the darkness of the fog, unable to choose
our way for more than a rod at a time, there came to my mind that well
known passage in Isaiah,—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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