Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
The house at _Reykjahlið_, is an ancient one built of turf and stone with
the usual turf roof, covered with grass in a flourishing condition. In
front of the house is the only windmill that I have seen in Iceland. The
sails are of galvanized iron and laid on the yards in squares like the
glass in a window. The mill is a small affair and is used to grind barley
and rye for the use of the family. No grain is raised in the country but
it is all imported from Europe and ground as needed. The entrance to the
house, like the one described in the chapter on _Hekla_, is through a
hallway with an age-trodden floor. The guest room is finished in wood
and we found it neat and clean. We are glad to report this state of
cleanliness because the English writers tell strange tales about the
uncleanliness of this house and its vermin-infested guest room. The
people at the farm spoke no English but they waited upon us with the
customary Icelandic cordiality and we thoroughly enjoyed the several
meals prepared especially for our table. The trout came fresh from the
lake and the prime eggs from ducks’ nests on the islands.
[Illustration: _A Hot Water Fall at Hveravellir._
_Slútness, Crater Island in the Mývatn. Home of the Golden Eyed Duck._]
One day I found a magnificent specimen of an edible mushroom, _Lycoperdon
giganteum_, and to the horror of the people on the farm I requested that
it be cooked. This specimen was ten inches in diameter, hard, white and
in prime condition. It had been long since we had tasted mushrooms and
our vegetable diet had been a sparing one since we left the steamer, so
I persisted, through Ólafur, that “the Americans really mean that they
wish this mushroom cooked and they will eat it.” Our directions were
carefully followed and the _Lycoperdon_ came to the table well prepared
and in full flavor. What consternation it created in the kitchen we
will never know, save that there was much talking there and uproarious
laughter in that department during the cooking process. The maiden who
brought it to the table came in with a blushing face and ill-concealed
laughter at some remarks that followed as she left the kitchen. It
certainly was delicious and after we had dipped deeply into the contents
of the tureen, Ólafur was persuaded to try it and the farmer standing in
the doorway looked aghast when he saw Ólafur eat it. Ólafur pronounced it
good and invited the farmer to try it but the latter shook his head in a
manner to convince us that he had no idea of being so unwise as to eat
such a thing. On the following morning when I called for the remainder,
the response was,—“it is all gone.” Whether they threw it away or whether
it was eaten after consultation with Ólafur I will never know for a
certainty but I believe that it was eaten, also I believe that every
sizable _Lycoperdon_ growing on this farm in the future is destined for
the stew pan with real cream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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