Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
From the summit of the pass an extensive view of the _Mývatns Öraefa_,
Desolate Lava of _Mývatn_, is obtained towards the northeast. It is a
trackless ruin wrought by the combined labors of several volcanoes and
contains no vegetation save patches of lichens that nourish a small
herd of reindeer. At the foot of the slope upon which we halted a vast
plain spreads out into the _Öraefa_. This plain is covered with a thin
crust of chemical earths which rest upon a substratum of viscid, hot and
sulfur-permeated clay. At the margin we left the ponies and ventured
cautiously upon the crust, recalling the experience of Dr. Hooker in a
similar situation at _Krisuvik_, where he nearly lost his life by sinking
into the hot mass. The crust will support the curious traveller if he
is sufficiently cautious in choosing his route by sounding the shell in
front of him with a staff. It reminded me of an experience I had when a
boy in watching my father cross a river upon thin ice, where he sounded
the ice step by step in advance with the pole of his axe while I followed
with great temerity over the cracking ice. As I expressed my fear of
breaking through, he replied, “it will hold as long as it cracks.” And
so with the sulfur crust above the seething furies, “it will hold as
long as it cracks.” Woe to him who fails to sound this undulating crust
before his advancing steps! All of this crust is composed of sublimated
chemicals brought to the surface by the superheated gases. The crystals
are various in form according to their chemical constituents and together
they present a discordant color scheme, much like a painter’s palette
where the various color daubs have run together. As one crunches the
crystals beneath his feet he has the sensation of walking with hob-nails
through a jeweller’s showcase.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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