Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
Following a narrow sheep trail between the edge of the lava and the
high ridge that connects _Námarskartð_ with _Leirnúkr_ and _Krafla_, we
arrived at a lonely spot, a deserted Icelandic farm with tumbled down
buildings, which gave evidence of having been a prosperous stead before
the lava flood spread its fiery wings over the valley. Here we paused for
lunch. Among our steamer gifts was a package which was marked for us to
open some day when we desired a change from our regular fare. We put it
into our hamper that morning and rejoiced to find a bottle of delicious
olives. We washed down this lunch with acid water from the brook, which
we later found to have its origin in one of the craters of _Krafla_. On
our return from the summit, the ponies, who had had no water for several
hours, went eagerly to this brook but after one taste they trotted along.
Curious to know why they would not drink since they had freely done so in
the morning, I dismounted and tasted the water. It had become much more
acid and I could account for it only by supposing that a larger volume
than usual had issued from the crater and that there had been less snow
water for its dilution than when we had lunched.
The climb soon began in earnest. In a long series of zigzag curves we
crossed ridge after ridge of sticky clay interspersed with volcanic ash
and pumice. Having gained the summit of the ash ridges we photographed
the distant peak of _Krafla_, traversed a bit of high moorland containing
a small crater lake of blue water, entered a sheltered valley between
the upper peak of _Krafla_ and _Hrafntinnuhryggr_, Raven-Peaks-Back,
a ridge of obsidian or Icelandic agate. Enormous masses of jet black
obsidian of the purest form rise from this ridge and millions of these
glass boulders are piled in a talus at the base of the cliffs. I secured
an excellent specimen seven inches in diameter, pointed at one side and
with a beautiful and double conchoidal fracture for the science museum
at Springfield, Mass.
We left the tired ponies to graze in the bit of grass while we made the
final ascent of the mountain, which is far above the craters. The slope
is steep and is clothed with a thick mat of birches to the very edge of
the snow in the ravine. These birches are so small that an entire tree,
roots, stem, leaves and catkin may be placed upon a five cent piece
without projecting. We saw many tracks of reindeer and picked up a fine
set of antlers of the last casting. The herd of these animals in the
vicinity of _Krafla_ is thriving as they are undisturbed by the natives.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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