Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
During the night our ponies ran away and it was a long time before Ólafur
found them. They were going, according to their habit, before the wind
and were nearly down to _Miklebaer_ when the guide found them. While he
was pony hunting I repaired to the little kitchen, if such it may be
called, and over a fire of dried sheep manure made some coffee and with
the provisions in our packing boxes we made a good breakfast. We got away
at ten thirty and soon after noon arrived at _Miklebaer_ and turned into
the _tún_ enclosure to visit the grave of Frederick W. W. Howell, F. R.
G. S. Howell was the author of the Pen Pictures of Iceland. He had spent
many summers in the country and knew it the best of any Englishman. His
illustrations are works of art and his descriptions of natural scenery
are faithful and full of appreciation. Howell was the first to make the
ascent of the _Öraefa Jökull_, 6,400 feet in height and the highest peak
in Iceland. This was in August 1891. He lost his life in fording the
_Heraðsvötn_, District-Waters, a broad, swift and deep river which flows
through the valley of the _Skagafjörðr_. The place was opposite the farm
of _Miklebaer_. This farm belongs to the church and within its cemetery
the unfortunate Englishman is buried. A marble memorial marks his
resting place and bears the following inscription:—
In Loving Memory
of
Frederick W. W. Howell,
F. R. G. S.
Who Was Called to His Rest
From the Heraðsvötn River
3d. July 1901
Aged 44.
“Asleep in Jesus, Oh What Rest!
So them also which sleep in Jesus
Will God bring with Him.”
The pastor invited us into his study and refreshed us with coffee and
cakes and conversed with us in German and broken English. He had a good
library of English, German and Icelandic works. Our stay was longer
than we intended, for Ólafur, (this time it was a young lady and not
the ponies that caused the delay), found a fair maiden of pleasing
conversation. We finally started without the guide and later when he had
overtaken us at the fiord and I teased him about his tardiness he stated
that the maiden asked him to wait while she wrote a letter to a friend
of hers in _Reykjavik_ and requested him to be the messenger. It must
have been a long letter. Had he collected as long a letter from each of
the attractive maidens at the many farms where we called in the summer
of 1910 he would have had a good sized mail by the time he reached the
capital.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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