Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
This shelter stands on the shore of the lake just under the shoulder
of _Eyriks Jökull_. As this was one of the most unusual so was it the
choicest of our experiences this summer. In front of the hut is a
waterfall which connects the upper with the lower lake. Here upon this
point of land _Grettir_ lived for many years during his exile, six I
believe. In ancient days this desert was infested with outlaws, desperate
men, living upon sheep and cattle stolen from the farmers along the
borders of the desert. Usually these were men who had taken human life
and were ready to take others if it would secure to them their wild
liberty. Considering the history of the place, its rough and weird
aspect, its proximity to the life-destroying glaciers and the chaos so
heavily stamped upon the land, it is not to be wondered that imagination
has peopled this unfrequented area with trolls and witches, nor that a
few people may be found to-day who tell their children that outlaws still
live in the interior around the glaciers and in the lava caves.
In the summer of 1913 I was camping at _Hvitávatn_, White-Lake, on the
east side of _Láng Jökull_ with the same Icelander, Ólafur Eyvindsson,
who was with us in 1910. He said that he first visited White-Lake in 1909
and that after he had retired with another Icelander to their tent which
was beside that of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Wright of Washington, D. C.,
they were thinking about the outlaws and Ólafur wondered if there was
really any truth in the current stories of outlaws living here at the
present time. At the close of conversation when sleep had fallen upon
him, he awoke as with the sound of two men talking in a low tone in the
Icelandic. He cautiously put his head out of the tent and with something
like fear. He listened a few moments, the men drew nearer and he went to
meet them.
To his pleasant surprise he found them to be a well known physician and
his friend from _Reykjavik_. And this is all the truth there is to-day
about outlaws in the interior of Iceland. There is only one thing to
fear,—shortage of grass for the ponies. Grass the pony must have and
feeding it to him is like feeding shavings to a roaring furnace. It is a
rare sight to see an Icelandic pony lying down, for he will carry you all
day and feed all night.
During the evening Ólafur and I shod the ponies, for the rough blocks
had made havoc with their little feet. This was my first experience
in the art of farriery. We hobbled them for the night and turned them
into the bog beside the upper pond. Then we made great inroads upon our
provisions. We gathered a few fragments of birch twigs and roots and some
dried sheep manure and with this fuel were able to warm two cans of soup
and to smoke the hut thoroughly. The smoke had the wholesome effect of
driving out the dampness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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