Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
Vergil says,—“_facilis descensus Averno_” but we did not find it easy
to descend into the _Averno_ of _Surtur_, nor to follow the cavern once
we had made the descent. We purchased candles at _Akureyri_ for this
purpose and lighting them we entered the chamber with one in each hand;
there being three of us we had six candle power. “How far that little
candle throws his beams,” of Shakespeare, was all too short a distance
in this blackness. A little beyond the entrance is a side passage which
we entered and where we found hundreds of bones of sheep and horses.
This was the place formerly occupied by the above mentioned outlaws and
thus far the legend above related is a truth. There being no animals in
Iceland large enough to carry flesh into this corner it is clear that
they were taken here by the hand of man. There are many hundreds of them
showing what an extensive use was made of the retreat in the old days.
Henderson mentions them in 1817 and Olafsen and Povelsen found them in
1753 so there is no doubt of their great age and we may justly conclude
that these bones are those left by the outlaws. As I write I have two of
them before me, one a vertebra of a sheep and the other a rib of a pony.
This rib had been broken while the horse was living and had been healed
again as the callosity testifies. As I look at this ancient bone I often
wonder what a story it could relate of the cave where it has rested these
hundreds of years and of the deeds of that lawless age.
For the first quarter of a mile the floor of the cave is strewn with
great basaltic plinths that have fallen from the roof from time to time.
Each stone was damp, dripping wet or coated with ice from the water
that has percolated through the roof. The blocks were so large that in
climbing over them we frequently found ourselves in holes up to the
waist and as our candles gave only a baleful glimmer it was difficult
to make progress. One can not step down into these holes without first
assuring himself where the bottom is. Once down he must crawl up over the
slippery stones on the opposite side.
The cavern runs straight as if laid out with a theodolite and the roof is
arched with plinths and the walls are covered in places with patches of
lava stalactites, which spread their nets of lace-like lava in strange
fantastic forms. The dome is from forty to sixty feet high and the cavern
is about thirty feet in width. As we proceeded we found more and more
the deficiency of our candles in giving sufficient light for us to take
advantage of the way, if indeed there is any advantage of one place over
another.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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