Iceland: Horseback tours in saga landRussell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
History
Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land
Russell, W. S. C. (Waterman Spaulding Chapman)
Iceland -- Description and travel; Sagas -- History and criticism
—_R._
It requires an effort of the will to leave _Geysir_. There is a
fascination in this heated area that is like the sirens in Ulysses’ tale.
We mounted in the wind-driven spray of the little geyser and turned
towards the _Túngufljót_, several tributaries of which had to be forded.
The quicksands are frequent in these streams and must be avoided. Many
ponies have foundered in them and brought their riders to grief. The
grass plains are freely sprinkled with flowers and as we left the geyser
region behind, the cottongrass, _Eriophorum angustifolium_, reappeared.
This plant waves its white tassel in all the Icelandic meadows, sometimes
so abundantly as to make the distant area appear like a patch of snow. It
is entirely absent in soil that is under the influence of any of the hot
springs. The meadows through which we passed are excellent grass lands
and the hay harvest was in progress. The men were swinging the short
scythe, the women raking and the boys and ponies carrying the bundles of
hay to the stacks.
_Gullfoss_, Golden-Fall, is distant ten miles from _Geysir_. The trail
leads over a very boggy country, especially after the crossing of the
_Túngufljót_. A good bridge now spans the main river. It was a large and
merry cavalcade that spread out upon the rising ground in the bog above
the river. All the guests at _Geysir_, satisfied with having seen the
eruptions, were bent upon improving the opportunity to visit the famous
falls. The section of bog, to which we have referred, is on an upland
slope and it is filled with ruts, hummocks and moss sponges. The hummocks
are crowned with several species of _Juncus_, the cotton-grass points
out the moss sponges and the slimy algae locate the wettest spaces. The
older ponies with eyes and nose alert always avoid the sloughs. If there
is evidence of the recent passage of a pony, another will confidently
follow. It is interesting to watch these little fellows sniffing the
ground and testing it with the fore feet when no foot marks point a
sure way. Leave the rein loose upon the neck, curb your impatience and
trust the pony to keep out of a bog; urge him to take a short cut or to
increase his chosen pace, and horse and rider are sure to become stuck in
the bog, a bad predicament. Some English writers describe this passage
as most difficult and dangerous. Take a local guide from _Haukadalr_
and let no traveller who reaches _Geysir_ forbear a visit to _Gullfoss_
on account of the bog. The passage is not so very bad and the falls are
worth much more than the effort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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