In Europe, this sort of tragi-comedy is at least well played; but in
America, you always have the feeling that the performance is that of
second-rate amateurs, who, if they would really live out the life
implied by America, would be the superiors of the whole world. I
am moved to laughter by some of the things I see among them, when
perhaps I ought to be awed, as, for instance, by the sight of a little,
lavishly dressed lady, lolling in the corner of a ponderous landau,
with the effect of holding fast lest she should be shaken out of it,
while two powerful horses, in jingling, silver-plated harness, with
due equipment of coachman and footman, seated on their bright-buttoned
overcoats on the box together, get her majestically over the ground at
a slow trot. This is what I sometimes see, with not so much reverence
as I feel for the simple mother pushing her baby-carriage on the
asphalt beside me and doubtless envying the wonderful creature in the
landau. Sometimes it is a fat old man in the landau; or a husband and
wife, not speaking; or a pair of grim old ladies, who look as if they
had lived so long aloof from their unluckier sisters that they could
not be too severe with the mere sight of them. Generally speaking, the
people in the carriages do not seem any happier for being there, though
I have sometimes seen a jolly party of strangers in a public carriage,
drawn by those broken-kneed horses which seem peculiarly devoted to
this service.
The best place to see the driving is at a point where the different
driveways converge, not far from the Egyptian obelisk which the
Khedive gave us some years ago, and which we have set up here in one
of the finest eminences of the Park. He had of course no moral right
to rob his miserable land of any one of its characteristic monuments,
but I do not know that it is not as well in New York as in Alexandria.
If its heart of aged stone could feel the continuity of conditions, it
must be aware of the essential unity of the civilizations beside the
Nile and beside the Hudson; and if Cleopatra’s needle had really an eye
to see, it must perceive that there is nothing truly civic in either.
As the tide of dissatisfied and weary wealth rolls by its base here, in
the fantastic variety of its equipages, does the needle discern so much
difference between their occupants and the occupants of the chariots
that swept beneath it in the capital of the Ptolemies two thousand
years ago? I can imagine it at times winking such an eye and cocking in
derision the gilded cap with which the New-Yorkers have lately crowned
it. They pass it in all kinds of vehicles, and there are all kinds of
people in them, though there are sometimes no people at all, as when
the servants have been sent out to exercise the horses, for nobody’s
good or pleasure, and in the spirit of that atrocious waste which
runs through our whole life. I have now and then seen a gentleman
driving a four-in-hand, with everything to minister to his vanity in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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