A vacant lot yawns here again, with a flare of theatrical posters on
its fence, and beyond this, on the corner, is a huge hotel, the most
agreeable of the three that tower above the fine square at the gate
of the Park. With our silly American weakness for something foreign,
this square is called the Plaza; I believe it is not at all like a
Spanish plaza, but the name is its least offense. An irregular space
in the centre is planted with trees, in whose shade the broken-kneed
hacks of the public carriages droop their unhappy-heads, without the
spirit to bite the flies that trouble their dreams; and below this you
get a glimpse of the conventional cross-street terminating the Plaza.
At the eastern corner of the avenue is a costly new apartment house
of a modified gothic style, and then you come to the second of the
great hotels which give the Plaza such character as it has. It is of
a light-colored stone, and it towers far above the first, which is of
brick. It is thirteen stories high, and it stops abruptly in a flat
roof. On the next corner north is another hotel, which rises six or
seven stories higher yet, and terminates in a sort of mansard, topping
a romanesque cliff of yellow brick and red sandstone. I seek a term
for the architectural order, but it may not be the right one. There
is no term for the disorder of what succeeds. From the summit of this
enormous acclivity there is a precipitous fall of twelve stories to the
roof of the next edifice, which is a grocery; and then to the florist’s
and photographer’s next is another descent of three stories; on the
corner is a drinking-saloon, one story in height, with a brick front
and a wooden side. I will not ask you to go farther with me; the avenue
continues northward and southward in a delirium of lines and colors, a
savage anarchy of shapes, which I should think the general experience
of the Fair City at Chicago would now render perceptible even to the
dullest sense.
VI.
There are other points on Fifth Avenue nearly as bad as this, but not
quite, and there are long stretches of it, which, if dull, have at
least a handsome uniformity. I have said already that it is still, upon
the whole, the best of the avenues, in the sense of being the abode
of the best--that is the richest--people; we Americans habitually use
best in this sense. Madison Avenue stretches northwest farther than the
eye can reach, an interminable perspective of brownstone dwellings,
as yet little invaded by business. Lexington Avenue is of the same
character, but of a humbler sort. On Second Avenue, down town, there
are large old mansions of the time when Fifth Avenue was still the home
of the parvenus; and at different points on such other avenues as are
spared by the elevated roads there are blocks of decent and comfortable
dwellings; but for the most part they are wholly given up to shops. Of
course, these reiterate with the insane wastefulness of our system the
same business, the same enterprise, a thousand times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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