In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and homeGriffith, George Chetwynd
History
In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and home
Griffith, George Chetwynd
Crime; Criminals; New Caledonia -- Social conditions -- 19th century; Penal colonies -- New Caledonia
A very clever and experienced mining expert once went over from Australia
to make a survey for the International, and after an exhaustive
examination he was shipped to London to make a personal report to
the Board. He knew as much about mining as any one in the Southern
Hemisphere, but his language and deportment were those of the bush and
the mining camp. A noble lord asked him if he could give any estimate
of the amount of copper, nickel, cobalt, iron, silver, gold, etc., that
might be found in the Central Chain, and this was his answer:
“My lord, if you were to take all the —— minerals there are out of those
—— mountains the —— island would —— well fall to pieces.”
The report was taken as satisfactory.
I brought some specimens away with me which certainly seem to bear out
his estimate. They were the wonder and envy of several mining experts
in Australia. One of the specimens weighs about three pounds, and I am
told that it contains about a dozen distinct kinds of minerals. It didn’t
come out of the mine. It was just chopped off the surface for me with a
pickaxe.
The mines are not at Pam. They are at Pilou, about seven miles up the
river. Here, connecting the principal mining station with the wharf,
is the only other railway in Caledonia, which is run by steam. It is a
narrow gauge and about five miles long.
That five miles is a journey through purgatory. The attendant demons are
little black and devilishly businesslike mosquitos. Now, I thought I knew
something about mosquitos. They had lived off me in many parts of the
world from Delagoa Bay to Panama, and Honolulu to Guayaquil, but when I
got to Pilou I found I hadn’t begun to learn about them.
The air above the swamp over which the railway ran was black with them,
and their song made the whole atmosphere vocal. They were all over us in
a moment. They even settled on the boiler of the engine, and bit it until
it whistled in its agony. We were black with them from head to foot.
Clothing was no protection; and, of course, ours was pretty thin. They
just stood on their heads and rammed their probosces down into our flesh,
usually along the line of a vein, and sucked in our life-blood until they
were too gorged to get their blood-pumps out again.
By constant sweeping with green branches we managed to keep our faces
fairly clear, and do our breathing without swallowing more than a dozen
at a time. Even the Kanakas, who are not as a rule a favourite article of
food with mosquitos, had to go on swishing themselves with boughs to keep
the little black demons out of their eyes and nose and mouth and ears.
As for me, I visited the camps and the mines, and then I fled. I was a
sight which my worst enemy, if I have one, might well have looked upon
with eyes of pity. I had got a touch of fever, too, in the swamp, and an
illness in Pilou was too terrible for contemplation. I would not live in
the place, rent free and with nothing to do but fight mosquitos, for a
hundred pounds a week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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