In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
After quite an excellent dinner, considering the remoteness of the place
and the limitations imposed on culinary efforts, we ranged our chairs
around the camp-fire—a mighty roarer fed with palm-logs the length of a
man—and the ex-rough rider put on a very creditable variety show with
local talent for our entertainment. The program opened with a plaintive
Bedouin love-song by the camp cook, an Arab from the Tunisian Sahel. His
two assistants, one of them a really remarkable ventriloquist, gave an
extemporized skit which must have been highly amusing, judging from the
roars of laughter with which it was greeted by the native onlookers. Four
Arabs, armed with sword and spear, then gave a kind of war-dance, during
the course of which they became so excited that I feared they would turn
the farce into reality and do each other bodily harm. The program was
concluded by a quartet of local prostitutes, unveiled, tattooed, and
festooned with jewelry, who performed the strange and sensuous dances
of the desert folk to the wail of flutes and the boom of tom-toms. The
brooding desert, gray white beneath the stars; the purple velvet sky; the
ghostly sand-hills; the little circle of natives, so closely cloaked and
hooded that only their eyes were visible, squatting on the ground; and
the slim, supple bodies of the dancing-girls twisting and swaying in the
light of the leaping flames—all these combined to form a scene which is
etched deeply on the tablets of my memory.
Because of the rapid radiation which takes place at nightfall, the
temperature in the desert is subject to almost unbelievably sudden and
extreme variations. This characteristic of the Saharan climate was
particularly noticeable at El Oued, the thermometer registering a drop
of nearly sixty degrees in not much over an hour. During the day the
heat in the little hollow where our tents were pitched was so intense
that we fairly gasped for breath; the stray currents of air which
occasionally reached us, far from affording relief, were like blasts
from the open door of a furnace; before the sun was an hour high the
mercury climbed to 120 and stayed there; to stay within one’s tent was
to invite suffocation, to stay without, where a thermometer probably
would have registered 150, was to be broiled alive. Yet the sun had
scarcely disappeared below the horizon ere we were shivering beneath
our greatcoats, and that night I slept under three heavy blankets—and
suffered acutely from the cold! That is why the climate of the Sahara
must be treated with profound respect by Europeans, for exposure to the
sudden chill which comes at sunset is frequently as deadly as exposure to
the sun itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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