In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
Si Sayah Laroussi, who, according to the legend on his visiting-card, is
grand marabout of the Tidjania, chevalier of the Legion of Honor, and
commander of the Order of Nichan Iftikhar, is a very important person
indeed in the northeastern Sahara, exercising political as well as
religious authority. His residence, which fronts on a spacious square
in the center of the town, is a substantial whitewashed building in the
Moorish style, the entrance, with its horseshoe arches and bands of
vividly colored tiles, being faintly suggestive of some of the palaces
in Fez and Marrákesh. Si Sayah, an impressive and colorful figure in
his vivid green turban, his caftan of pale pink silk, and his snowy
burnous, on the breast of which gleamed the cross of the Legion of Honor,
received us with some show of ceremony, surrounded by the officials of
his miniature court, in the audience-chamber, a finely proportioned room
whose decorations combined Oriental taste with European tawdriness.
After serving us with Arab coffee, some native cakes made from sickly
sweet almond paste, and cigarettes, and displaying with much pride a
series of photographs of Mecca, to which he had made the _haj_, Si Sayah
conducted us through the gardens, which contained several gazelles and
a flock of pink-legged flamingos, to the really impressive mosque which
was being erected over the tomb of the late grand marabout, who, if I
mistake not, was our host’s father. I was particularly interested in the
architecture of the marabout (I am referring now to the building, not
to the man), for its doorways, instead of having the Moorish horseshoe
arches which are characteristic of religious edifices in French North
Africa, were high and rectangular, with a curious serrated border,
suggesting, without actually resembling, the doorways of the Temple at
Karnak, in Upper Egypt. Upon my expressing surprise that a town as small
as Guemar could afford so large and beautiful a place of worship, Si
Sayah explained that the funds for its erection had been subscribed by
the pious throughout North Africa, adding that generous contributions had
been made even by unbelievers. Taking the hint, I begged the privilege
of making a modest donation to the building-fund, which was promptly
accepted in the name of Allah.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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