In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
A moment later there emerged from the enveloping dust-cloud a long line
of grim fantastic figures, mounted not upon the lumbering dromedaries of
commerce but astride the lean gray racing-camels called _méhari_ by the
desert folk. At the head of the column rode a slim, sun-bronzed young
Frenchman in the uniform of a captain of _chasseurs d’Afrique_. As the
cavalcade swept by us at a brisk trot, saddles creaking, accoutrements
clanking, carbines thudding in their buckets, I noted that the riders
were veiled like women, their faces muffled to the eyes with dark blue
scarfs. By these I knew them for masked Touareg; raiders and robbers no
longer, however, but camel cavalry, _méharistes_, in the service of the
republic. Unlike the ordinary Arab, who invariably wears white, their
_gandourahs_ were somber in color—dark blue or black—and girt about with
broad belts of camel’s-hair. The black _lithams_, or face-cloths—which,
by the way, are worn not for purposes of disguise but in order to
protect the throat and nose from the sand—permitted nothing save the
fierce smoldering eyes of their wearers to be seen. Perhaps it was their
reputation for cruelty, perhaps it was their black masks and somber
apparel, but there was something awesome and impressive about these
veiled riders and the stealthy, quiet tread of the great beasts they
bestrode, as they sped southward into the infinite spaces of the desert.
Possessed of a skill in desert-craft and tracking equaled only by the
American Indian, mounted on their wonderful running-camels, capable of
covering enormous distances in a day, these “People of the Veil,” some of
them at least, have accepted the pay of France and are bringing security
to the caravan-routes and the desert towns which they terrorized so long.
They have not yet beaten their long, two-edged swords into plowshares,
it is true, but they have turned them into policemen’s batons; and a
policeman is a sure indication that civilization is not far away.
CHAPTER XII
DOWN TO THE LAND OF THE MOZABITES
Linked to Biskra and civilization by the slender thread of steel which
the French have thrown across some two hundred kilometers of dusty
desert, Touggourt, the dark-green mass of its palm-groves floating
betwixt the sky and the tossing dunes, suggested a boat moored to the
shore by a long hawser. Cut that hawser, and Touggourt would, you feel,
drift away upon the sea of sand, for it is the southernmost rail-head in
the Algerine Sahara.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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