In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
In the old days, before the railway and the tourists came, before Hichens
wrote “The Garden of Allah,” Biskra was no better and no worse than other
desert towns. But the hordes of winter visitors which soon began to
descend upon the place clamored for the Oriental forms of entertainment
which the English author painted so alluringly, and these the avaricious
Arabs, who always have an eye out for the main chance, were only too
willing to provide, so that to-day Biskra spreads before her guests
every form of vice to be found in Europe, and some varieties of which
Europe never dreamed. Sensual, provocative, hot with desire, painted of
face and barbaric of attire, she beckons from beneath her palm-trees, a
demi-mondaine of the desert, a siren of the sands.
Biskra is the capital of the Ziban, or the country of the Zab, a people
of mixed Arab and Berber stock, whose villages of sun-hardened mud,
nestling amid groves of date-palms and fruit-trees and waving fields of
grain, dot that portion of the desert lying between the Shat Melrir and
the southern slopes of the Aurés. The water which keeps the oasis green,
except a certain amount from wells, all comes from a single stream, the
Oued Biskra, which, coming down through the Gorge of El Kantara, forty
miles to the north, carries the melting snows of the Atlas to the Sahara
and finally drops from sight amid the sands. Biskra itself consists of
half a dozen villages, separated by large plantations of palm and olive
trees, scattered through an oasis three miles in length by less than
a mile in breadth. The native houses are of the usual Saharan type,
earth-brown, thick-walled, and flat of roof; but dwelling in black
tents along the outer edges of the oasis is a considerable transient
population—nomads who have come in from the outer desert to refit
themselves for another voyage, for Biskra is, in its way, as much a port
as Algiers.
Strongly garrisoned and further strengthened by the fort of St. Germain,
Biskra is a place of great strategic importance; the end of one of the
fingers, as it were, with which France maintains her grip on the desert.
Colomb-Béchar, the present terminus of the railway running south from
Oran, is another. So are Gabés, and Tozeur, and Touggourt. Thanks to the
chain of outposts which she has flung along the southern frontiers of
Barbary from Libya to the Atlantic, France’s hold on the desert is now
tolerably secure, but the French have not been lulled into a feeling of
false security. They are fully alive to the possibility of one of those
general conflagrations which sweep across these fiery regions with the
suddenness and violence of a sand-storm, as is denoted by the significant
number of uniforms—legionaries, _tirailleurs_, colonial infantry, spahis,
_méharistes_, _chasseurs d’Afrique_—which fill the streets of Biskra with
color. They are firemen, ever on the alert for an alarm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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