In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
I find it somewhat difficult to analyze the charm of Biskra. That it has
great charm is undeniable, but its charm does not lie altogether in the
brilliance of its sunshine, the richness of its colors, or the novelty
of its setting. It has no monopoly of these. I think that its peculiar
appeal is to be found, rather, in its innate barbarism, for, beneath its
thin coating of civilization, it is African to the core. This may seem
rather far-fetched when one remembers that it is reached from the north
by comfortable trains with _wagons-lits_ and dining-cars; that its larger
hotels compare very favorably with the great hostelries of Florida and
the Riviera; that its casino is crowded nightly with men and women in
evening-dress risking their money at _petits chevaux_ or roulette. Yet
the barbaric note is never wholly absent; it rings more shrill by force
of contrast; one has the uneasy feeling that the veneer of civilization
is none too thick, that one is walking on a perilously thin crust. The
caravans which slip in so silently from the great wastes and steal out
again with equal mysteriousness bound for God knows where; the hooded
figures which crouch motionless in the dimly lit interiors of the native
cafés; the tattooed harlots who flaunt themselves in the narrow streets
of the Ouled-Naïl quarter; the wild-looking, sullen-eyed men from the
depths of the desert who furtively whisper together in the market-place;
the momentary flash of a steel blade as a burnous is carelessly thrown
back; the eery wail of flutes and the muffled throb of drums; the
moonlight gleaming on the bayonets of night patrols—all these combine to
remind us that we are in Africa, a tiny island of white men amid a sea
of mysterious, fanatical, menacing brown ones; and that out there in the
brooding desert, under cover of the darkness, who knows what ominous
plans are hatching. As in other places on the edge of the unknown, one is
constantly oppressed by an undefinable sense of lurking peril, the uneasy
feeling that something is about to happen.
Biskra, as every reader of modern fiction knows, is the Beni-Mora of
Robert Hichens’s “Garden of Allah,” and to leave there without visiting
the gardens of the Villa Landon which the novelist so graphically
describes would be as unthinkable as to leave Versailles without seeing
the Trianon. For the setting of his story Hichens chose the beautiful
estate of Count Landon, a French nobleman who has devoted his life to a
study of Arab life, which lies in the extreme outskirts of the oasis,
on the very margin of the desert, its walls rising abruptly from the
illimitable sea of sand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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